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You work for Harry, Right!?

Yes, but when I did a second 'at operating temp' compression test my results were also consistantly higher than when i did it on the motor cold. -I think im going to do a hydrocarbon test to know for sure Anyways..I drove it all day yesterday, checking everything regularly, and it is...

Man, you should be going to MIT

Use one of those stethescopes, listen to the side of the block while it is running (on a lift or something to that effect..) You should be able to pinpoint the location of the noise by doing this.

^^^fantastic car dude!! I'd love to see a build thread with a bunch of pics:naughty:

I did one at a time in the tightening order..

I also read it on this forum somewhere in a recent thread found by searching.. Anyways I did 2 compression tests and its all about 130 across the board +/- 2psi. I havnt noticed any differences in drivability, the only thing is that the rad gets low and fills up the overflow whenever it is...

DAMN!!!!! looks good! Which car is that going on? yeah dude parts cars are bang for the buck! I made over $900 on that 86.5 car which I paid $300 for.

Had the HG and bolts replaced with OEM parts about 2years ago. drove it like that since then, and decided to re-torque the head. I followed the factory torque pattern and losened each bolt less than a quarter turn before going at a higher level of lb/ft. I started by losening a quarter turn...

Nice matt!!! pics!

Does anyone recognize the car or know who the owner is if he is on the boards?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jarAZxj7SfY&feature=channel

definately keep it, you for sure will be needing it down the line if you plan on continuing to modify your car. As for the gauge, a WB gauge gives you the exact A/F ratio, where as the NB gauge gives you colors with the categories of rich, lean and stoich

Are you missing bolts because your buddy lost them? lol Most ACE or any other hardware stores will have what you need, you could always go to a Toyota dealer..but there you will be dropping alot more coin than at a hardware store. ARP makes all assortments of nuts and bolts, but then again is...

Yeah, your buddy has no idea what he is talking about, just do it right the first time and get a wide band..it will make for a worthwhile mod, one that you won't have to replace or upgrade later. -Sam

Yeah, dont get me wrong..the JZ motors are by far my favorite engines of all times, and they do sound badass either single or twin turbo. Love the BA twin sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGe-wxoWh6U&feature=related Huge single = jizz in my pants...

A million things...not really. Maybe a leak somewhere on the Intake manifold? Valvetrain probably.. I didnt notice a ticking sound, try n capture it better with an engine bay video!

I've been running a 1-piece aluminum shaft for about a year now and have seen 140ish mph on the hwy a few times, and got some pretty intense + scary + loud vibrations/whining. Also at cruising speeds on the highway the rear view mirror buzzes, kinda annoying.. Otherwise it has been a great...

Yeah, sounds quiet. I've got a 3'' DP + Test Pipe + Blitz Nur Spec which is pretty comparable to the RS R, and mine is way louder..not loud enough to my liking however:3d_frown:

Yeah it eliminates the elbow, it is a Titan Motorsports DP.. So you dont want to get rid of the IC pipes, how bout the WeaponR intake pipe? Matt if you want a hand or some company workin on your car gimme a holla! -Sam