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The TB linkage is different (right hand drive;)), and it only has one vacuum nipple on the top, where as USDM TB's have two.

I don't care if you have a 4g63t mounted in your abdomen and have all that power to your feet, really. I'm done with you- you deserve no answers from anyone simply because of your attitude. Thread back on track now- please don't post anything else in here unless it pertains to the OP's question.

Stock diff shouldn't be a problem, but if it's held in place like the e36, he'll likely go through diff bolts like crazy. (Front mounted bolt that holds it to the subframe tends to snap)

(just going to add that the TT wheels are 17") :)

I wasn't referring to flashing, I was referring to turning the power to the bulb on and off, thus turning the bulb completely off. You'd know better than me; isn't it bad for the bulb to turn it off and on frequently? That's what I've read, anyhow.

LOL, busted! :nono: :runaway: I am in no way, shape or form, your buddy, buddy. I don't feel the need to justify what I stated, as chance are, you'll just take it the wrong way like I've seen in all your other posts. Oops, I made a mistake, sue me. I am human. I meant out of gear free...

Sweet car for sure. (I have an e36 M3). Can't help you too much, but I can certainly offer you some suggestions: 1) check out www.bimmerforums.com. They have an entire section based on engine conversions. There is a guy in there with a 1jz in his e36 3 series. Considering the z3 and e36 3...

I run 275/40's on the back, 255/40's on the front. MKIV TT wheels.

VDO makes the stock gauges for BMW. ;) (Lots of the BMW guys use them for monitoring their cars with aftermarket goodies.)

You'd be better off with some good halogen highs then, IMO. Agreed. I guess it wouldn't be terrible to flick the highs off, but in a case where you'll be changing from highs to lows at all, I'd recommend a bixenon housing, as it's the shield that moves, so the bulb stays ignited no matter...

If you plan to install a metal headgasket (MHG), you really need to have the head and block lapped (machined very smooth, as in less than 50ra for a Cometic MHG, lower for an HKS) Thickness of the headgasket is determined by how much material is removed from the head and block during the...

Well, if you want lows on all the time, and bixenon high/low, then grab some FX35 housings, slap some clear TSX lenses on them (better than ANY of the FX lenses), and use some TSX projectors for low beams. :) However, that'll put you with 4 low beams, which would certainly be a bit much. The...

I'll never buy another HID kit that I don't piece together myself. All I've been looking into now are OEM HID retrofits. (fx25 bixenon housings+TSX lenses comes to mind)

Fuses, wiring, and if not, likely a bad ballast.

Yikes. Don't even start the car. I wouldn't have bought it based on that fact alone. No air filter= ANYTHING getting sucked into the motor/turbo, etc... :(

I <3 Defi gauges: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6oU386Ngu0&watch_response By the way, this isn't my car. :)

Eh, no. He won't have to mess around with the body harnesses at all. Only the engine harness. Ugh. NO! '87-88 are the same, treat '89 as it's own year, and '90-92 are the same. READ over on www.4cefed.com. It's ALL there! :nono:

I've got an Accufab 75mm TB on a Ron R. FFIM. Haven't driven this setup yet, though. :(

Have you ever done the headgasket on the motor?

Look up MSD DIS 4. ;)