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As someone who used to run a dyno professionally, I'll tell you here are the most important things: 1. Your car needs to be in top condition. There are few things harder on a car than pulling in 4th gear on a dyno. The airflow is never as good as it is on the road. 2. Fresh oil (see number...

For all "factory" fasteners, just follow the TSRM. Other than the original stock headbolt spec, the rest is dead on. For fasteners like ARP, use the moly lube and the spec provided by ARP for the fasteners when used with moly lube.

It's cool. For fasteners like ARP, just follow the spec ARP provides with the bolts. Pay special attention to the diffferences between using moly lube and regular lube, it really does make that much of a difference. The factory spec for the factory bolts, yes, it's incorrect. But when using ARP...

Very fucking bad idea. http://scitation.aip.org/getabs/servlet/GetabsServlet?prog=normal&id=JPVTAS000128000003000379000001&idtype=cvips&gifs=yes While this study is specifically about pressurized cylinders, it shows what happens to fasteners (your "used arps") when you over stress them. There...

I read it - it's crap.

Start here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=179880&postcount=7 then go here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=182731&postcount=23

I'd like to see a scientific explanation of how this supposedly works. Think about it this way, if there is a heavy spot on your tire, it is going to cause that spot to be pulled a little further away from the rim via centrifugal force and the beads should settle there thus increasing the out of...

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=968&SearchYN=N

Now I understand what Nashman has been trying to do all this time.. :D

I doubt he has the car at all. E-bay doe not inspect vehicles btw. The e-Bay VPP only counts for cars purchased upon e-Bay, and it has nothing to do with "inspections". http://pages.motors.ebay.com/buy/purchase-protection/index.html You're dealing with a scumbag. He probably doesn't have the...

Indeed. It's the precision of the Motec I'm sure. This is why I asked the original question. Sure, invest in a Motec M600 or M800 and you've got a ton of flexibility and control. But an awful lot of guys around here go with a S-AFC. Not calling that "bad", but it sure is primitive compared to...

Depends on your injectors & turbo. For example, with many Lexus AFM/550 cars, I've found that a base fuel pressure ajustment can get you pretty perfect Vf readings without any AFC tweaking at all. That means you can concentrate your points up higher when they are critical. For example: If...

Yea, but you're controlling them with a Motec ya bastard...

It's generally not a good idea. The TCCS will just fight you to tun out whatever you put in. And it will screw up your long term trims. I never mess with Idle, Cruize or low boost rpm's with these things. I concentrate all the set points in the "full boost" are and tune in there where it...

Ok, based upon that, here's the info. There's a difference in the harnesses on the Supra side between the years, but on the S-AFC side: Red = ECU Power Green = Tach Signal Grey = TPS Signal Brown = ECU Ground Black = ECU Ground Orange = From AFM Pink = To ECU (AFM) Note 1: The only wire you...

I understand what he means, there are two pairs of wires. Ok, let's get a few points clear before I answer because I don't want to give you inaccurate info. Your car is a 7M-GTE powered Supra, correct? What year? Your AFC, which one is it? S-AFC, S-AFC-II, S-AFC-NEO?

It's either wired incorrectly, or you have the wrong sensor types set. For the MKIII on the S-AFC it's: Sensor Type -> Karmann Cyl -> 6 Throttle Type -> / (arrow pointing up and right) The AFC (when everything is set at zero) should have no effect on the way the car runs.