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Different.

Mazda was still Mazda then. Mazda now is a ford with different badges. Your still bastardizing the car. Best bang for the buck is the ls. Cam intake exhaust and tune and your easily over 500hp reliably.

It's the same. You just use a mk4 hose.

Not to mention there computers are still in black and white.

Can also get all that from dm.

Sure they could. But they prolly wouldnt seal.

Yes the trans will be ok for that. Also need the master clutch lines clutch flywheel pilot and throw out bearings and shift fork.

Need to with the stock twins. If you move e motor farther forward the fan gets closer to the rad, shifter moves farther forward and the drive shaft will not fit. Not to mention your bring more weight forward on an already nose heavy car.

Iirc the thermostats blow in those. Better of just using the sandwich plate and a universal cooler with push lock hose.

I've tries that at a bunch of autozones and kragen. Never worked. Idk why. Napa carried them just buy looking uP ngk copper.

Ngk changed the pn for the coppers. Iirc it's 4644 now. 1.62$ on rock auto.

You unplugged something at the fuse box?

Try taking the ground off the black and see if it still happens. If same try a different battery. Did you do anything with the fuse box? Anything on the engine harness is fused would have popped a fuse before shorting the battery. Also is the pos going to pos and not ground.

At case of you get what you pay for. It's a sticky in this section. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?102040-T61-Bolt-on-Turbo-by-Cx-Racing&highlight=Cxracing+bolt+turbo

Could always run a wire from the ign or cig lighter or something.

Keep in a covered area and tape all open holes up.

48 psi at the rail?

Any codes?

For some reason I thought in one of my heads they didn't have them. They could be stock. Most likely. You could measure them tho.