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Whoops missed that part.

I havnt heard much about them. But in order to get an accurate wideband reading you need the wb02 sensor which is screw in style. Will need to get a bung and have it welded in on your down pipe if it doesn't have or already.

If its a narrow band Gauge there pretty Much worthless.

Without the proper mods the 70mm is going to be pretty much useless.

Ya. Highly doubt his ic pipe came off from pull the dash. Is the ignition switch plugged in? Can pull the covers for that and get under there and see if you missed anything. Also dumb question but did you unhook the battery?

Daily driven my current car since may 08. And dd another supra before that for 2-3 years.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?207-How-To-Walbro-Install-with-12VRelay-all-in-one-thread-with-Pics

Studs are studs and nuts. They provide better clamping force. Bolts are just bolts. There also easier to install. Block threads should always be cleaned and chased. For studs you need a bottom tap(dm has them) and you need to make threads for the last 1/4 in or so that is not threaded at...

Moved to general. Not specific to na. Wheel fitment is all the same. Doesn't matter how low you go. I run 18/10 +25 all around and it's like perfectly flush. You can run a lower offset and stretch tires. Or you can run a higher offset and have the wheels be slightly sunk. Rolling fenders...

Seems as the input shaft is too short. Also shifter location might be different. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-918808.html Also if this is staying na or not very high hp you can just use a w58.

Did you do the 12v mod tho?

Check the part number on them and google call or email RC. Need to be low imp import injectors.

Those injectors are rather large for 400hp. Some 550 would be better suited for your goals and easier to tune with. Also don't see a tuning device in there.

Theretrofitsource.com

You need to set the ign timing to 10* btdc. With the timing light you turn the cps until the mark on the balencer lines up with the 10 on the timing cover. Can't just guess. And did you ever check your codes?

Have you checked all the fuses?

You can try unplugging it and see if it goes away but I wouldn't drive it like that. Have you checked for codes?

I just cut a hole in the backing plate for the stud to fit through.

No. Have you done the timing belt recently? Make sure no1 piston is at tdc via spark plug hole and make sure the cam marks are lining up with the backing plate. If the cam/crank timing is off one tooth it will run like shit if it runs. If the ignition timing is off it could idle really...

What's the profit? More money would be spent fixing the 7m and more down time then just cruising in the reliable 4cyl.