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Check that you have low resistance from the C8 pin (on the cluster) to one of the two voltmeter pins. It sounds to me like you have a break in the main 12V power line in the cluster (since your old cluster works fine). It was my understanding that the clusters are interchangeable (use...

have a look here. It shows pictures of the gauge connectors. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/Wiring/pages/Page_139.html

Also, the volt gauge shares a ground (A8 white-black)) with the Tach (and turbo gauge). If you had a bad ground your other gauges would still be working.

First, if the cluster is not vertical the gauges will read all over the place, so that is probably why your temp was in the middle originally. You say all gauges are dead. Temp, Oil, Fuel, Volt, and Tach I assume Also the brake light is dead, but the bat light is on. That all points to...

Your original fan clutch was potentially another source of your overheating. Once the silicone oil leaks out the clutch will not fully engage the fan and you will overheat.

Let's reboot.... what gauges are not working. Please list them. You have a handheld multimeter it sounds like. Get the following information with the gauge connected to the car: 1) read voltage across the two terminals of the voltmeter (ign on) 2) do the brake/battery lights come on with...

When the tiny filters clog up the pressure inside the crankcase starts to rise....

LOL. I've worked on a few satellite programs. There are ways to mitigate the effects you speak of. Perhaps the hardest is making things radiation hard, but there is quite a bit of knowledge on how to do it these days. Spend some time searching the scientific literature and you will find...

Take a look at this thread before you proceed! http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=165412#post165412

Since everyone is nitpicking, why do you have one of the TB bypass coolant hoses on the J-tube! But seriously, that is one clean engine, very nice.

Look at mcmaster-carr. They have big helicoils. A 30 mm is $6 ea, of course that doesn't include the tap, but if you take it to a machine shop they will probably have the tap and not charge you too much to install it. You'll also need the "drill from hell" to clean up the hole first. Another...

That's your problem then. On the cap, measure the distance from the rubber plunger to the top of the cap, then compare with the distance from the top of the rad neck, to the ledge down in the rad neck. If the cap is the wrong type it will be too short and the rubber plunger won't reach the...

Make sure you have the right rad cap (there are two types). With the cap on, squeeze the top hose and make sure nothing squirts into the overflow bottle.

Well that's interesting! I definitely had them sitting in the car longer than a week before starting. Did everything else right though.

What is that baubernut hanging off the back bumper?

Good explanation mickyg, and given that the cap is already egg-shaped if it shows excessive wear because the loading on the cam bearings is to first order inline with the springs, removing material actually pulls them back closer to a circle. Fig, the issue everyone has is that 90% of the...

Too late now it sounds, but you just measure the clearance and then lap the bearing caps to remove enough material to get back in spec. The valves push the cam upwards so the majority of the wear is in the cap. Loose bearings makes the valetrain noisy, reduces oiling at the back bearings, and...

Cool, that makes sense. Sounds like its probably a PCV oil-trap that bolts there and drains back into the crankcase. I wish they still used it on the 7M, would keep all the black PCV gunge from coating the intake.

I love this project. I am hoping you might be able to solve a bit of trivia. The M blocks have a flat surface machined on them as shown below. No one seems to know why. Was it used for anything on the 2M motor? PS Stays crunchy even in milk was coined in 1963 by Cap'n Crunch...

j1: Sounds like your block surface was okay then. I would watch your coolant very carefully over the next few months. I personally am not a fan of torqueing the head to 80 ft-lbs with moly lube as that is 50% over the stock torque with motor oil, but others seem to do it without problems...