Before you do that vice grip thing, try using a 10mm box end wrench. It's a tight fit but you can get one on if you jiggle around the wrench. If you use an open-end wrench you will round the bolts 50% of the time.
Good to know. Then the harness is not an issue. The kickdown cable is very expensive from Toyota. Make sure you get one from the donor, along with the throttle linkage assembly on the engine.
There are a few connectors that go from the main engine wiring harness to the auto trans by the starter. That probably means that the main engine wiring harness will need to be swapped or something jury rigged. The auto ecu connects to the trans through the connectors.
I found with the Hellas that when the low beams are aligned the highbeams are too high and illuminate the trees! I bought some Cibie's and they work much better.
There is a lot of papers on this in the SAE journals. Low speed high load for best efficiency. Does anyone remember the shift arrow light that VWs used to have. It would tell you when to shift to get best fuel efficiency, and basically you were lugging the engine all the time if you followed it.
I've done the helicoil with the head out of the car but no drill press. I think the safest way to go is to start with a drill that barely over size, and then work your way up to the required diameter for the helicoil. That way the threads keep everything square and guides the drill.
Also...
Those fans are there to move more air thorugh the condenser and radiator under high A/C loads and/or water temps. If your replacement fans cover the same area, they should be okay.
However I suspect your new fan control is not monitoring the A/C high-side pressure so it will not be sensitive...
The highest probability I would say is a crack in the solder joint for the power pin on the cluster. If you know how to solder, get some and reflow the connector pins on the cluster. You need some precision here, so don't use a butane powered torch or giant water pipe soldering tool for this...
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