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With the fuel pump running and pressure gauge hooked up and vac hose from the fpr off you should get full pump pressure. Pinch off the return line momentarily and see if there is any change in pressure. You shouldnt see any change if the fpr is closing off properly

He said he wanted to set the gap to .018", so yes, thats the correct feeler gauge for that... dont know where you guys came up with .180"

Step 1: Turn on headlights Step 2: Turn off headlights Step 3: Turn knob one click while headlights are going down

are you sure the suspension/knuckle wont move down farther?

if youre talking about the big round part it rocks on, you dont take that off, use what the new one came with. If you're talking about the little plastic bushing at the bottom you just have to push it off very hard.

Try bleeding first. If you have a little bit of air in there it could make it do what you are describing, although adjusting the free play should have made it change at least a little.

Thats the problem. I don't know if combustion is forcing air into the system thus pushing coolant out or if its just not getting sucked back in. I checked the piping and its perfectly sealed. I even put a different piece there for a day and no change. But then i also did the block test and had...

ok so i could not find an adapter for less than 30 bucks for the pressure tester for my radiator so i put that off for now as im not sure if it would tell me a whole lot. I did however purchase a block tester kit and tried for many minuets pumping and the fluid never changed from blue at all. I...

WOW. I cannot believe i have gone this long without even realizing.:nono: But can you answer my question? lol

I understand that dextron III supersedes dextron II atf for trannies but is it the same thing for our power steering?

was wondering the same thing. I guess there would only be a hole in it if the coolant had gotten too acidic and ate through:dunno:

i dont care what tire shine it is i just spray it on and rub it in/wipe it off to make my tires look clean and dark but not shiney. I also use the stuff on some trim pieces like the front lip and mud guards to make them nice and black

I have a Raytek gun also, very simple, easy to use and accurate.

Please explain further what is wrong. What i got from this is: -The air conditioning and the heater both worked along with the lights and everything when you tested the car -Now, the lights don't work, but the Low Med and High buttons for the blower motor still activate and control the...

you're always going to need sway bars even with a suspension setup, Its only for body roll and it needs to do its job.

I think its more of a quality concern more than anything. I had Tokico Illuminas on my mr2 a while back and i had wished i had gotten konis. They are just generally cheaply made it seems and probably wont last as long as Koni's.

What do you mean and why would it get clogged? I was considering using the AC fan as one to run for a set time after the car has been shut off because i have noticed the whole engine and everything kind of heat soaks and gets very hot minuets after shutdown. I was thinking running this small fan...

as stated before, the thread sleeve is welded on the inside of the pan, and there is a cutout in the sleeve to let oil at the very very bottom of the pan to drain out, and when the bolt is overtightened this little cutout makes a space for the flat mating surface to dent inwards

good running temp is usually between 180 and 195, im not sure what you consider critically hot but anything upwards of 200-210 i think would be too hot Someone please correct me if im wrong

How long are the threads on these? Is there any chance it will block off the "gap" opening where the threaded thing in the pan isn't welded and hold more oil in the pan after draining?