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Thought it would be interesting to compare my emissions with and without the 1st cat. Bottom line, removing the 1st cat increased my HC and NO significantly. My low speed HC is now at 80% and that is a little too close for comfort. I've seen my HC emissions climb with every test since they...

So it looks like your O2 sensor is working fine, which is no great surprise given it was replaced recently. It is normal for Vf to jump around under transient conditions, but it is pretty much constant (at least on my car) for steady state at a given rpm. You might see it vary one step under...

Move your front knock sensor forward to the next bung. Where it is mounted now is only for the single knock sensor on the 7MGE. Oil sensor looks right, but a better camera angle would help to confirm.

Have you done your cherry picker experiment with the MKIV liquid mounts? They will fit the 89+ supras with a very minor mod.

It is definitely factory. Looks like a heat pipe, there is another piece inside that you cannot see that touches the oil in the bottom of the diff. See the attached pic. I believe IJ discussed this in his build thread.

I bought the compressor mentioned in post #21 from ebay. It is good quality and fits our heads nicely. However, its obviously not going to work if the head is still on the car.

If it was me, I would still follow up on a few loose ends before going to a pro. First, the O2 sensor should be counting at idle and cruise. That is, the signal should be oscillating between rich and lean. It should fluctuate 8 times or more in 10 seconds per the test procedure outlined here...

The factory alarm isn't wireless? (unless you were one of the lucky few to get the TDSE upgrade).

Thanks Jdub. I need to get something better than the factory rad cooler. Did you daisy chain the external cooler with the rad cooler?

The 7M valve train is inverted buckets and shims. No hydraulic lifters to bleed down on a 7M.

You can test for rod knock. Pull the sparkplug wires one by one. If it stops knocking, you've found your bad rod. If it doesn't stop, then go by a lottery ticket quick!

Then delete the timing belt and the flywheel bolts in your list. The timing belt won't come off unless you remove the crank pulley. At that point the seals are all exposed on the front side.

How about crank seals (front and back) and oil pump driveshaft seal. Might also want to replace the timing belt idler pulley and spring.

Turbo gasket kit 04175-42011 list $91.37 Champion $68.53 Gasket, Turbine Outlet Elbow 17279-42010 list $49.30 Champion $36.97 Gasket, Turbo To Exhaust Manifold 17278-42010 list $37.24 Champion $27.93

Where did you buy it from?

Jdub, could you post a few pictures of your cooler/filter setup?

In your pictures of the block, I don't see the front timing cover installed. Make sure the machinist decks that to the same height as the block or you will have a big leak!

I posted some pictures a while back on another thread (link below). Do yours look like this? Note how the cam journals look bad, but the saddles in the head and on the caps looks perfect. Has he plastigauged the clearances on each journal with the correct caps installed...

I took a bar of aluminum and put two bolts in it spaced apart to fit in the cam spokes. Then it acts like a wrench. Basically its a home brew of SST 09278-54012 shown here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=24 But...the cams have flats that you...

I always get irritated when I can't find the torque spec for a particular fastener. Examples are the A/C bracket, and the turbo water pipe-to-thermostat housing. It would be interesting to see what torque consistency the 'do it by feel' guys achieve.