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Sounds like a bad isc. You can take it off and put power and ground in the right order and see if it makes all the steps that it should. Its in the repair manual. Can also find a good used one.

what brand is the isc? If it is a cheap one it could have likely already failed.

Get some hose clamp cable pliers.

Hard to get a picture with the shroud on. But i have about 2 inches between the fan blade and the stock radiator core.

Rc car diff fluid also will work. Something around 3000cst will work. Higher the number thicker it is.

Its not mounted where its supposed to be mounted that is why it fit.

Nose chunks just had one of those braided an lines for the oil feed fail on him. Not the first either. And ya the oil pan gasket is not supposed to have a cork gasket. Comes from the factory with only fipg.

That's good space. I'm using the 2jzge clutch and blade. Blade needs to be trimmed but its sits much farther back allowing for a bigger radiator no problem. You can get heavier weight fluid as well for the clutch if you want it to lock up more often.

welcome.

The head is usually weak around that area over time and more times than not the threads will strip. Best to heli coil while its out and easy then find out later on after everything is in and bolted on.

Just take some wire and put one end on the positive side of the battery and the other in place of the little wire on the starter. If it cranks when you do that that will tell you whether your starter is bad or not. Also its pretty easy to test the relay vs just throwing parts at it.

Could be starter or wiring.

Check the little wire on the positive battery terminal.

dm sells a complete kit just dont use the hg iirc. Oil pan is toyota fipg silicone not a gasket.

Iirc the only ones from the dash are the ign switch and the starter. theres the gauges as well but that wont effect how it runs. You will need fused power wires for B+, m-rel, and BATT.

you just scrape off the burnt part gently and make sure none of the tracing was damaged. If it wasnt just lesave it and solder in new caps. They can be found at electronics stores for around 1-2$.

gap it down to around .028. With that gap it will run fine but any good amount of throttle and it will start to break up. Did you pull the boots off the coils?

Why not use poly bushings?

I'd switch to 89+.

Charcoal canister(evap) and egr are 2 different systems. ;)