Okay so following the tsrm, I have no codes. The ignition timing is dead on, double checked it with my timing light. Mechanical timing is good. Doesn't the cold start injector only work during cranking? Is there a way to test the injectors without removing them? I've used the solid bar test to...
An o2 sensor is on order, I was wondering if just the o2 would be causing that. Could poor vacuum to the stock fpr cause rich conditions like that? I can't tell how it acts under boost as it's a new engine and I'm not wanting to run it hard with these problems.
So the shops around you say the 7m OS valves offer little gain? Would they be referring to the gain on a stock ct or a big single? I would think more air flowing through the head would make more power. And seeing that the 7m head flows poorly, freeing it up would make good power.
Okay so here it is, my recently dropped new long block 7mgte idles great but sometimes if you rev it up and hold the throttle at around 2500rpm it sounds as if the cylinders are loaded up. The car occasionally puffs a nice big cloud of black smoke during a rev, not after. I've looked around on...
I'm interested in this as well because I'd love to mate the v160 to my 7mgte. I'm also curious to see how this setup with work. I know there will be a LOT of banging on the transmission tunnel with the v160 in there. I remember reading a thread where someone shoehorned a 2jz/v160 into a mk2...
Code 34 is fuel cut, doesn't matter what turbo you have, fuel cut is fuel cut. Code 52 is normally a rewire, I had a code 52 and the wire checked out okay from a ohms check but when plugged in the ks wasn't sending the mV ac signal like it should be. It turned out that when the plug wasn't...
I personally would NEVER use an FCD, fuel cut is there for a reason. It's to protect your engine from possible damage, if you have little spikes that are causing FC then lower the boost a tad bit. Why risk the engine to keep the annoyance out of it when you can simply just drop a psi or two.
Dimped or drilled rotors are cheaper than replacing the whole car.. Self drilling the rotors can cause sub-surface cracks from the friction generated by the drill bit without adequate cooling. Especially with 'cheap bits'. Just my .02
Knock sensors don't limit how much boost you run, the ecu retards the timing to save on possible engine damage from a code 52. http://www.engineblox.com/?p=65
You don't re-torque arp head BOLTS to 80-90 ft lbs unless you'd like problems. If they received ARP bolts then a torque spec with ultra torque lube should of come with it.
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