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Perhaps the 86-88 were steel, I've never touched one. The 89+ do not look like steel to me. There is a part number change from 88- to 89+. A magnet test is in order...

But Gary, it is premixed with demineralized water for added protection and convenience. :icon_bigg

Getting back to the thread, though, I thought those pipes were stainless?

Imagine the thermostat failed closed for some reason. Tell me what your gauge would read versus the temp of the coolant circulating in the engine.

If you think you cleaned it well, then I would leave it for now. In a year peel back the shrink wrap on one of them and see how its doing. If it still looks good then I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it. It's not flight hardware going into space so you can always redo it if things start...

The problem with your choice of flux is that over time it will eat away at your wires because it is acidic and during soldering forms ionic salts. You will need to carefully clean all your prior work. Use something like this http://ergotopposite.info/canfield-solder-magic-flux-remover.htm...

Sigh, should have known better than to ask a question involving oil? :rolleyes:

Yup, after 20 years I think if the "crappy" OEM filter was going to kill my engine it would have by now. I've owned this car since new.

That's a zinc chloride based flux. Good for plumbing, but very aggressive. Oatey docs say DO NOT USE ON ELECTRICAL PARTS. http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Submittal_Sheet/No.%205%20Flux.pdf

Thanks for the ideas. I've been using a cap wrench with a long extension for years. I think I'll just go back to using the Toyota filters, even if they are not the best.

Actually I do use a cap wrench to put it on because I cannot get my hand or a strap wrench up in the stock GTE location under the turbo. My old cap wrench has a red line that I use to turn it 3/4 turn after contact.

I bought a NAPA Gold oil filter today and realized that the fluted canister does not fit my trusty oil filter cap wrench that has fit every other filter brand for the 7M. Any recommendations?

This is what mine has (three wires connected to the 6 pin block.).

You connected Tc to E1 and it does not flash?

same reason it connects to the cruise control and ECT computers... codes. If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

Careful using OSH flux and solder, that stuff may be made for sweating copper pipes together and will corrode the crap out of your electrical wires or circuit board down the road. The best solder to use for electrical wiring is a rosin core solder from an electrical supply store. Some fluxes...

Given the AFM is reading more air than typical, I think we can rule out an intake leak, especially since introducing one (with the BOV) improves the idle. Do you have a fan shroud on? Air buffeting the AFM can cause it to give unreliable readings, especially at idle, although the filter...

Would expect the opposite. It should run leaner with the BOV vented since unmetered air is entering the engine. Is your intake stock? 40Hz is high for idle. Is there a filter on the end of the AFM?

Could you provide the following info (I've put in what I could find from the previous posts): 1) AFM freq, AFR, and RPM at idle with BOV shut. (34-40Hz, 20:1, 650-700) 2) AFM freq, AFR and RPM at idle with BOV open. (?, ? ?) Also measure Vf under those conditions.

As JetJock always says, use an aircraft style reverse bleeder to push the bubbles up to the Master Cylinder, the way gravity intended. The factory manual does not mention that the ignition needs to be on, and I've never had any issues bleeding the system with the ignition off...