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As far as the standalone opening up options for upgrades, IE intake manifold, IC etc, this is true.. If you ever plan on going to a FFIM, I'd keep the stock intercooler for now then switch it out when you change intake manifolds. The OEM paper filter and airbox are massive restrictions.. Not to...

Holy hell. I've probably got 17 into mine. Not to mention I had to buy another car and sacrifice it to save mine.

:P I'd love to have a boost controller that goes by gears but that's later.

400rwhp is doable with an upgraded ct26. Look at my mods, I haven't dyno'd yet but my 'guess' is probably anywhere from 380-400 with the 57 trim. 60-1 will get you very very close if not over.

Show me an electric boost controller that is made specific for a car please. EVERY turbo car uses a compressor housing nipple and wastegate nipple which allows any electric boost controller solenoid to fit in between the two.

Boost controllers will NOT lower your boost. I do not understand why people think that a boost controller will go any lower than the wastegate spring pressure. Also, all boost controllers are universal.

Well, I'd be very interested to know what the problem for this is.. Keep us informed as to what the problem is please.

Mixed with a few crunching sounds.

What? Especially this part "FCO also happens when you let the throttle snap back to closed with engine RPM over about 2,000 RPM or so, too."

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?38775-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment This will help you make sure the CPS is on the correct spot. If it chokes and spits, trying to start, that means you have the required things for the engine to run but it's merely timed...

What about the cps?

I was thinking the same thing.. Just spend the money for a safc and the afpr kit.. 300-400 bucks is cheaper than rebuilding the engine because you tried to do something the cheap way. What's that saying? Fast, reliable, cheap. Pick two.

Hard to tell if you're going lean under boost or not without a wideband. I'm not too informed about the maft-pro but could it be that something needs to be corrected in the tune for the added airflow? You could always pull a plug and check the condition of it.

Seems you're running a 57 trim turbo with no lex afm. I did the same thing and when I opened up the turbo elbow, it did 11 psi without a boost controller which was hitting fuel cut. Fuel cut isn't harmful persay, it's a built in safety measure. Fuel cut is keeping you from harming your car...

Complete engine swap or NA-T swap?

Well I hate to be 'that' guy but if you owned the car for 16 years, why can't you fix this problem? Are the cam gears on the center dowel pin hole? With the car sitting at TDC on cylinder 1, where is the CPS pointing at inside the case? Have you double checked all the grounds? Especially the...

What psi are you running the hy35 at? What are your other mods to support the 560's and the hy35? Any engine codes? Without a wideband, how have you tuned your maft pro?

That's pretty interesting, how long did the car sit? If any at all. An injector clogged with only 5k on them, have you thought about dropping the tank to see how the condition of it is?

Why do you think most drifters run their tires at close to 60 psi in the rear?

When you say new cps, did you pull out the cps and put another one in? Are you sure the CPS is timed to the engine correctly? Don't overlook this as many many people do and chase their tails forever. One tooth off the car will spit and sputter but will never really idle unless you hold it WOT.