Hey, I've tried searching for this and got nothing.. or rather WAY to much...
Anywho, does anyone have a technical writeup on how to make your side marker indicator lights flash alternately with the turn signals?
Thanks. -Jake.
Mods, please move to tech if it's ok. It's not a very "techy"...
My thermo switch has worked flawlessly for the last 18 years...
You know, the turbo will fail eventually too, you better yank that off and go high compression so you don't have to worry about that failing, and possibly fouling spark plugs....
Flush the coolent system with a chemical flush from the local auto parts store. Follow the directions, and flush it until the radiator drains clean, and unrestricted. I disconnected the rear heater hose and blew through the block to ensure that there was no major restrictions in the system.
Gixxr, I would really suspect a boost leak. It may not hit FCO until 5 psi, and you may reach full boost. But when it meters more air then the motor recieves, even if the boost pressure is the same, then it runs rich, and cosequently pulls timing.
Remember that if you pull too much fuel with an...
What fuel injectors?
And I believe the Aeromotive AFPR is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, which means that as boost goes up, pressure goes up. What you are thinking of would be like the Vortec FMU, which is the same thing, except instead of a 1:1 rise (1 psi boost equals base pressure...
It has studs, as well as bolts. It is held in place in ten locations, actually. To be precise, it is held in with seven bolts and three nuts.
See step 14.
Hope this helps.
-Jake
Uhm, the AC switch is perfect to use.
It has nothing to do with the AC.
THe Temp switch he is refering to is the single pole on the thermo housing, and it grounds at 160-170 deg F. If you want it to run at a different temp then you can purchase different temperature switches from an auto...
I figured "rebuilt caliper about 3K miles ago" would have covered that.
But I suppose new pistons, boots and seals doesn't mean a new slider was used...
1. I'm not sure about Clevite rings... I love their bearings.
2. I don't know
3. You have to use a piston that is the same weight. The brand is not so important.
4. Rod and main bearings. What fuel injectors are you running?
Maybe a pinched hardline? Or the front proportioning valve on the DS fender. I'd remove that and clean it. Also make sure the rotor is true.
Good luck man.
If it has radial grooves, then there is no worries, as these simply hold oil like a chamfer and keep the cam journal lubricated. If it is pitted and rough, then you should source new cams.
If the "bearing" surfaces in the head are pitted then the head can be line bored, and it will lower the...
ok...
Let me recap.
1. You have the HKS SSQV and your bro has the Type RS.
2. You swap to the RS and try to install some aftermarket FMIC.
3. You give up, and put it all back together as it was, stock IC, etc...
4. You only get 4psi now.
5. You put the HKS BOV back on in case the Type RS...
It could be. Does the car buck under boost, and hestate?
It sounds like a bad afm though.. Do you know any supra friends from whom you could borrow a working afm?
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