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I always use Areomotive. It does not look like you have it hooked up correctly. Inlets from the return side is usually on the side and the return to the tank from the regulator is on the bottom. I cannot tell from the picture how you have it hooked up since it is tilted. I don't trust any...

I have a order coming from Rock Auto with new suspension parts. Inner and outer tie rods, ball points, sway bar bushings, stabilizer links, rack and pinion boots and rear caliper rebuild kits as well. I like having good brakes. :)

Good work. Keep it up.

Do a 2JZ, they belong in there. Why? It is a unique swap, make it nice and powerful.

You will have the paper in the box that states the torque to be used with moly lube.

85ft/bs? That is crazy. My JZ was torqued to I believe 65ft/lbs for the mains.

I was in class today and on SupraMania, it is my C++ programming class but I was early, so I decided to look at my build thread. The kid sitting next to me looks at it and says "What car is that?" Here is how that conversation went....From now on, when in computer lab, I unplug the computer...

By Lucas assembly lube. I used it on my motor and that thing will stick. It is sticky and works well. Takes a long time to drain down but a film is still left. Pull the fuse before starting the engine and crank to make sure you have good oil pressure.

JZ coils are better. Everything JZ is better. :D Just got my rotors today. Those things are huge man.

It was moved when doing some prep work, that is the reason for it being in the spot that it is in.

The red supra is done being painted. We are just waiting on the paint to dry well enough to buff it out and sand it. I also got my Wilwood from BigZavs. I will try to install them this weekend and like he said, they were barely used. A little surface rust on it but nothing some brake cleaner...

You can get the 1JZ gasket from DriftMotion or Champion.

Theft deterrent is going bad. Not an issue, there is a write up to disable it. What parts will you need to buy? How many more problems are remaining with the car?

With rebuild build, what are you planning to do? Just rings and bearings? ARP? Build the head? If the funds are there, you can do it all now.

They are two different things.

Ok........

Make sure you are using the feed and return on the regulator. They have specific ports.

The top side of the ring should have a mark on it. Look at the back of the NPR box and make sure you install the oil rings properly. The chain link ring should go in first, then the bottom ring and the top one after. When I say bottom ring and top ring, I am still talking about the oil...

Put a ring in the cylinder, press it down with a piston to make it even and check to verify your clearances.

I have been getting a lot of request about moving the harness behind the dashboard and having it enter the firewall by the throttle cable. Here is a picture and credit goes to gurley.