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I wish it was .75 cents here. The dealers here where I am at like to sell a .50 cent part for 20 bucks. The last part I bought was the turbo to elbow exhaust gasket and it was 90 bucks!

honestly, in my opinion, a street car is something you would let your mother drive to pick up groceries, drop off mail at the post office, go to the bank, having the chance of her putting in 87 octane(cause shes cheap) and not ever have to worry about if her little bundle of joy left the a/c...

and if the bottomend is trashed, I just traded a built shortblock about a month ago.... crower rods, je pistons, fully machined block and crank..... clevites throughout, im an idiot

....staying positive

cool, thanks jetjock, I know exactly what dye your talking about now(I used to sell it at the zone, have always wondered if it was ok to put in a crankcase). To the zone! .... for half a case of oil and some dye.... and a flu shot damnit, one of these days I will own a garage.

I was driving to go see my folks for the holidays, I got halfway there which was about 45 minutes out to see that my oil pressure dropped like a rock. Luckily I am a paranoid bastard and check my gauges often, I killed the motor and coasted to a gas station. Pulled the stick and found not a...

you must not be a nitrous fan. The additional injector idea is extremely similar to a WET nitrous system, same principal, although in my opinion with an AIC it can be controlled moreso than the nitrous 'pills'. I dont see why people are discrediting something hotrodders have done for years.

That car looks like ass, vinyl... looks like the owner got bored and wanted to get rid of his stock of colored electrical tape... Shooting self in face for having to see such a tragic Rice. That owner is a Turd Burglar:kloguck:

Im with you on the 'cheap fuel' statement the csi idea is funny, a large aftermarket performance company exploited your wallet.... and you liked it!:nono: when talking about the z's, I think the pressure switch was set to come on at 2-3psi and then would turn the csi on full boar. Yes...

Thinking out of the box are you, having the old folgies smight thee??? j/k, im glad someone is thinking out of the box, good luck on your setup, and remember this VERY IMPORTANT STATEMENT: their is more than one way to skin a cat and just like most math problems, many ways to get the same...

damn good numbers considering its a mustang dyno, keep up the good work!!! BTW, is that a T3 flange t61?? Also, I know this is a load based dyno(weight, estimated drag), I noticed your claimed weight is lower than what it should be, that weight effects the numbers if I remember right... can...

haha, my 280z(s) were like that, both of them, I had another buddy in town that my key worked not only on his ignition but his door too.... that was a mean joke, im just glad he didnt call the police :evil2: check the accordian hose for any rips or tears, definitely check the hose coming out...

15.7 @ 86 at 3psi with exhaust/intake/57trim.... I launched, blew the manifold to turbo mounting gasket as I hit second gear(I removed the turbo to find half a gasket...) boost dropped from 7psi to 3psi and got beat by a damn G35.... never again will that happen.

just knowing common aftermarket radios and what not, the orange wire is always the illumination wire to be routed for the dimmer, like I said, I could be wrong. edit: even more interesting, all of the mechanical gauges I have were a common two wire install, one power, one ground, why...

sounds to me if you cut the red wire, It will work the way you want it, I might be wrong though...:icon_bigg get the multi meter out and check continuity of the bulb, find out which wire is for the physical bulb, (red or orange, sounds like orange is your man though) sounds like for whatever...

Alright, so I figured out why I was getting some crazy angles, cause I was DOING IT WRONG! Zack hooked me up with some instructions, apparently the lower fender pipe goes underneath the passenger headlight and ABOVE the frame rail, not below, that threw me for a loop. The pipe angles looks...

one thing I noticed the most was this crazy angle on the upper fender pipe to the lower fender pipe, it looks almost to be a 45 degree angle. I have to be doing something wrong.

yeah, I think i figured it out, every picture I see on the top of the motor with the hks kit has the 'hump' or flex couplers, ive noticed that some of the pipe angles where two pipes will comes together are damn near impossible with straight couplers, its just asking for a boost leak. I thought...

alright, HKS wants 10 bucks for the instructions... so I called the guy I bought the kit from, he said he might be able to hook me up, he did mention the oil cooler has to be relocated and I might need to get the flex silicone couplers (will make it MUCH better)