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Ok, I talked to Albert and he said he does a 2 o' clock feed, 8 o' clock drain with a 45 degree -10 so I will do that on the next turbo when I install it. He said with that, it points straight down as with the 1JZ and drewgo manifolds, you can't have it 12-6 since the drain will hit a runner...

I understand but wouldn't it flood from day one? Just asking, not trying to be a douche as you know I ask you about anything. By the way, think the cat lady's turbo is functioning well after your "trip?"

Steve - It's all Garret internals and a journal bearing. Ian - Yes, the red fitting. Here is a better picture,

Here is a shot of how the drain is, Comes off from the ARZ flange, then to a 90 degree -10 and then the the stainless line down to the oil pan with a 45 degree -10.

Ian, the turbo drain is a -10, to housing is clocked 12 to 6, goes to a 90 -10 and then to the oil pan bung which the JZ's have for the stock turbo. The hole on the oil pan itself is bigger than a -10 too, but the ARZ flange adapts to a -10. There should be a picture a couple pages back of how...

I am fixing it as we speak....don't talk about how pissed off my dad is about it. He wants to paint the whole car now. So I am looking for an 89 bumper local along with moldings. Before Right Now

Ok, good news. I started up the car, it ran good without the turbo on it. The turbo is leaking! I will call Aaron and see what he can do. This is the first time I got a defective part from Aaron. As soon as I opened the bolt to take off the half moon for the rear of the turbo, the turbine...

Whoops, hoping you didn't see that Patrick. I will be checking the turbo out today.

It doesn't overheat, so a cracked head would cause that. It seems white to me but when I disconnected the exhaust and let it run straight from the down pipe, you could see the hint of blue. I changed it from 10-30 to 10-40 and it eased up.

They are from Toyota, brand new. No cold start puff of smoke either.

O, just great. Car was idling and guess what, it started to smoke. White smoke. Checked oil cap, clean. Dip stick, clean. Oil, clean. Compression tested, good. Smokes only when hot. I am lost at what to do now. Yeap, and I took a sledge to the quarter panel already before mechanics...

My car had the same problem by the rear subframe. The 3 inch exhaust touched the rear subframe where it has a little curve that the stock exhaust would go too. I hit it a couple times after heating it up with a torch and made a bevel. You can do it without a torch but it would just take a few...

Unless, I missed something. You should try getting another shop to evacuate and recharge with fresh R134. Some machines allows you to recharge with recycled gas which is what you pull out of cars before performing any A/C work. Stay there and watch them and ask to see to make sure they add...

You have no recharged the system since to left that A/C place, right? I believe they put too much gas, that will also cause this as the condenser will not be able to cool the refrigerant efficiently.

Pulled the seats and cleaned out the gunk under there from all the years. If anyone has a mint blue armrest, shot me a PM. Before After

I would believe so but I typed in 2JZ TRD oil cap and nothing came up on EBay.

Where do you guys get the TRD oil Cap? I can't find one. :-)

Do something while running the car with the A/C on. It an old trick, with the car on at operating temperature, turn on the A/C and start soaking the condenser with cold water. It should keep the pressure down. Report back after you do this. Don't just spray a mist on it, soak the thing down...

We had a problem like this on a maxima and it turned out to be the expansion valve. Did you replace that? Condenser replaced too?

Update?