Search results

Even on E85, I think a walbro 400 will cover you up to 500-600 bhp.

Gurgling after a pull.. That's the heater core early warning BHG system that toyota engineered.

Why do I have a feeling he's running 550cc and lex afm. Sounds like a dying turbo if it won't hold boost. Normally a boost leak will be laggy but still be close to maintaining the level. You don't have to tune the car if it's on 550cc and lex afm. They're both 25% bigger than the stock part so...

First pass or street tires?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?5631-7M-assembly-tips. This is a good write up if you plan on turning some wrenches yourself. Any machine shop you find, make sure you get the block decked with the timing cover mounted. If you bore the block, please torque the idler pulley for...

For a 13.1 at that power level, you must of done like 110-113 MPH.

Nooooooooo. I thought he had found a new vendor for them. I remember something where he discovered another connector would clip on.

Also, buy a new TPS connector. http://www.tweakdperformance.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

The profec displays boost as well as being much more controllable.

^ Agreed. I prefer my profec b spec 2 over my friends AEM truboost all day.

I know a few people have made a crank girdle but I think they all went on top of the mains. I thought about making a girdle with the mains integrated out of some 4340 PHT. It would definitely need to be line bored though. Also need longer main studs and pan bolts.

Find a new machinist.

Alrighty. He said he wants to keep the 7m but people keep saying jz and single. Lets do some looking. Both engines will require a new turbo. So the cost of that between the two is null. Same with the clutch and ems along with supporting mods. Now that is done, lets see what it'll take a 7m...

Look on this forum for a thread called "egr or no egr" I started the thread solely about egr and it has a lot of good information in it.

Jtube isn't an item you install, its already on the side of the block under the intake manifold. Its something you bypass, just hook up the return and leave it out.

Have you tried completely loosening the adjustable bolt on top? Also a regulator running 70 psi is considered to be shut, not wide open. Wide open is no resistance which equals no fuel pressure.

If you still think its 50/50 you didnt read enough. Egr lowers egt and prevents a lean condition under part throttle/part load. If you want to remove the egr system the way you're asking, I look forward to reading your future problem threads.

Cams have a three hole dowel pin in them for the cam gears to align to. On the back plate of the rear timing plate cover has two notches to align the timing marks on the cam gears. You install the cam gears on the cam using the center dowel pin hole.

If you run twin 044 pumps, I'd run bigger fuel lines with an fittings to a dual feed fuel rail and a -6 return. Delete all the banjo fittings going to the fuel filter as well. The turbine housing will make it hard for that turbo to hit your desired whp. 7cm2 is like a .4x a/r.

I'd use an air hose on the old sensors just don't get too close with a lot of pressure. As for removing the bolt for the cam gears after you've already taken the timing belt off(Most people loosen the bolts with the timing belt still on as there is a dowel pin to keep them from moving) you can...