Search results

Might wanna check out the videos on youtube making fun of him....:rofl:

Most likely. Heard you guys were having problems with a car, I'm sure we'll fix w/e it is.

:rofl:

All your vacuum lines hooked up? That's weird... I've never gotten that code. No EGR on my car either.

The point is you can make 600hp with a S-AFC 1.... :)

I've seen a few NEO's and played with one on a MKIII... no problems that I know of. The cool thing with them is the ability to log boost pressure using a second pressure sensor, which is incredibly useful for someone who doesn't have a standalone or datalogging capabilities. I just hate the...

You: Come ON... give it to me.. Car: NO...NO YOU CAN'T HAVE IT... IT'S MINE... :rofl:

:rofl:

"A banjo, Bob?" "I saw a guy get hit over the head with a banjo... and he went down.."

:) hehe, yeah that won't work.

10 degrees base.

What wrong with the stock pipe?

ouch

I use 10 for most boost levels, and maybe a degree or 2 retard for higher boost.

Careful Jimmy! Those tires are great, but will feel like you're on ice with radials up front. I had no idea you were this close to being done, but I guess that's what that excited message was that you left me.

Where does the money go if someone buys it?

You won't have to lock it in really, it'll stabalize. (Depending on the quality of your compressor.) Warning though, make sure you check the pressure periodically, as it may begin to creep... that's why I use the peak/hold WARNING feature on my boost gauge when I check for leaks. HTH...

Impossible, without a throw valve right after the compressor's regulator... which is pointless anyway.

I don't use the gauge on the air-compressor, I'll set the regulator at 0 and gradually start turning it up with my WARNING pressure set at about 10psi on the boost gauge. Once it goes to 10psi, I hear the alarm going off and then slowly reduce the pressure till the alarm stops... and lock it...

Prove it man. :)