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You know, sometimes, if you back off the throttle just enough to gain traction, you'll actually straighten out, and accelerate forward with more speed. I guess practice makes perfect....

Yes. Start at the front, work your way back. It's pretty messy, though, and you're gonna get water in the cylinders and bolt holes. Blow all those bolt holes out when you're done. This method will not get it real clean. It'll just get out the loose crud that's laying in there. If its got a...

I'd seriously consider doing more than a head gasket and new bolts if I was going to put forced induction on an n/a. Especially if I was half way in the motor already.

Oh. lol, could be normal wear. In that case, you're probably good to go. If you have the pan off, just go ahead and check the bearings. Little hint: with the motor in the car, check the mains one at a time. Pull one, check it, install it, and torque it back to specs before you remove the...

f00g00: I have one of those kits. If you don't have a temp. gun to set it with, it can be difficult to do correctly. Summit also has thermal fan switches for controlling the e-fans in different temp. ranges. They screw into the t.-stat housing. I prefer one that comes on at around 200, and...

Voltage tested the tps on the afore mentioned vehicle. Used the + contact on the tps, and the - contact on the batt. ground for the volt meter connections. E2 .025v closed, .025v open(ground) IDL .029v closed, 4.75v open VTA .536v closed, 3.5v open VC 5.01v closed, 5.01v open...

No. Aux. fans are for the a/c, thats the reason they're called "condenser fans" in the tsrm(http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&P=8). If you want to use electric fan(s), wire and control them correctly, of they'll burn up quick, and cause you endless grief...

So you've pulled the pistons? If so, I'd go ahead and check the bearings on the mains and rods while you have it apart. Specs are here: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=69 How was the head bad?

Clean the battery terminals. Check that the signal wire to the starter has good contact. You can test your batt. Have your wife crank the car while you check the batt. with a volt meter. If it drops below 10 volts, go get a new one. Check the main power wire from the batt. to the starter...

Pull the drain plug out of the block, and run the hose in the coolant passages until it flows clean. Once it runs clean, let it drain, then blow it out with the air. You can repeat this a couple times, and still get rusty brown crud out of it. For the oil system, really the best way to clean...

^^ What JDub said.

Hahaha!! A blonde, smart, and works on cars? If he ever gets stupid, look me up. I have more tools ;)

Check the little vacuum line that goes from the p.s. pump to the intake boot just after the afm? Could be cracked, or have a pin hole. Dashpot, and maybe the tps as well.... The dashpot catches the throttle just before it closes, and lets it close slowly to keep from suddenly suffocating the...

The block itself is fairly difficult to damage. What do you mean by, "taking some stuff apart?"

You might check PowerTrip Performance in the misc. vendors section. He was more expensive(not much, but a little), but offered good quality and a life time warranty, iirc.

Why the gte ecu? Doesn't it have a less aggressive fuel map without being boosted? I know it'll run, but wouldn't the fuel maps for the n/a offer better performance?

That would really depend on how crooked the holes are. If they're as bad as his pic., there might not be enough metal left to tap a hole that big. Might be able to fill them and start over. Might be I have an extra head off a 90 turbo laying around the shop that I'd be willing to sell...

:yelrotflm :yelrotflm

https://www.budzter.com/adjusters.html You might be able to try those as well. I think the best thing would be new springs and shocks.

There's a big rubber boot that is supposed to cover that hole for the shifter. It bolts to the tunnel, and seals on the shifter. That will help with a lot more than the obnoxious gas smell. The tuner would help to, as long as you have someone with experience set it up. Put a good, high flow...