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I don't know how much power you're pushing but beware that the 7mge 5spd (w58) won't hold as much power as the 7mgte 5spd (r-154), although it should still hold 350-400 as long as you aren't beating it to death. You're gonna need the driveshaft from the w58, tranny to engine brackets, clutch...

I think it looks pretty sweet myself. Very clean, and definately original.

Idea...how about running wires like the mkiv with the coil right on the wire? Then you wouldn't need a coil pack at all. Just a thought

anybody have any clue how much it would cost to get wires like the mkiv with the coil built into the wire?

haha...I don't have a 2jz, and I don't want twins on my 7m :)

I'm using NGK's, works fine for me

I was pondering the same thing. But I was thinking more along the lines of an upgraded ct with a 60-1 (or maybe smaller) with MDCmotorsports new ball bearing center cartridge. Twin ball bearing upgraded ct's...Spool shouldn't be HORRIBLE and it would be a rather cheap alternative to the other...

blue ngk's here and they're working perfect so far with almost 10k miles on them.

What did you do to fill in the moldings? I really wanna shave mine off (good clean look, and no worry of rust forming underneath. I've heard that using fiberglass to fill most of it and then bondo on top to finish it off. It's a sweet look.

How stupid. noxide is leaving because he's being flamed...and people are STILL flaming him in his farewell thread. I haven't even seen his car yet, and I don't care what it looks like. If it's got custom work on it then it's fine with me. I respect lamarossa for the custom work he has done on...

pb blaster is my new friend. I find it more helpful than wd-40. my .02c

should be a piece of cake. pull the old one out, try to line up the pushrod on the slave with the little divet in the fork. You should know if it's in there because you can feel the resistance when you're trying to put the bolts on (unless you don't have it connected...hmmm). Anyways, if you're...

first thing I thought was diff...but it would probably feel like the opposite tire was dragging when you turn the other direction. Mine kinda rattles at low speed when cornering and sometimes feels like a tire is dragging.

from a mathmatical standpoint....if you cut the shifter down then you don't have to move your hand as far to get it in and out of gear, although you won't have the leverage as you did before and it will (might) take more force to get it in and out of gear. I have the sogi mod and I love it...

find the leak, could be the master or the slave. My car was doing that not too long ago so I replaced the slave cylinder and it was still doing it, so I replaced the master and...problem solved! Replacing the master isn't that hard...a little pita, but I've done more tricky things.

niiiiice. Well...that makes 2 super white 3's :)

At one point I wasn't getting any boost, the gauge didn't move AT ALL at any rpm. I was tooling around fixing some things in the engine, too the stock bov and blew threw it.....no resistance at all. Grabbed the bov from my 87 blew into it...couldn't do it. Slapped the 87 working bov on...maxxed...

get yoda parts. I bought a new master and slave from a local import parts store (where I have connections so I got both for like $40) but the master cylinder has a small spot where it catches for just a split second. Also, the pushrod that attaches to the pedal was about 1/2" too short so I have...

haha....I've got the same problem but I fixed it. I don't know how...it just stopped after I put the valve cover back on after checking my valve shims. If it's a constant problem you could just use a small bead of rtv over the whole gasket surface (I think Shaeff does that) and it should help...

ouch. Mine were ticking really bad. I was pretty pissed because the guy I bought my car from said he just had the head rebuilt back to factory specs and it cost over $1200. The bastard the rebuilt it just threw the old shims back in without checking them. I had 22 out of 24 shims out of spec...