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Should be 2 screws where the ashtray goes as well.

Fan shroud in place? I'd start at the t.stat as well.

No. Take the shifter knob off, remove the console, remove 4 10mm bolts from the big rubber boot(outside corners, hidden under the bottom fold), remove boot, remove small rubber boot, remove 4 10mm bolts, and pull the shifter out. I can do it in less time than it took me to type this.

Do you have a jumper in the diagnostic box while you're checking the timing? You're supposed to. TE1 and E1 The "knocking noise" in vid 2 is the motor dieseling. It's attempting to die. Kinda like spark knock. Timing for the belt gets set like this: CPS is set with the timing...

I had a SC Regal give identical symptoms last year. Turned out the fuel pump resistor was bad. Bypassed it, and it worked perfectly. Just FYI.

^^ And the solid shroud that they're in covers over 95% of the radiator.

I'd definitely like to have adjustable end links.

Ahh, I stand corrected. Thanks for the link, very informative.

Egr blockoff: I wouldn't leave the cooler on the back of the head. I'd thread and plug the hole in the back of the head from the exhaust port. The cooler is gonna fill with hot exhaust, having no where to go, and increase the temperature back there. Then again, the more I research the egr...

A block test will tell you easily. I keep telling you that... Forget it. Take it to the dealer, and let them change the head gasket for you. A whole lot easier than the $25(?) block test kit that's pretty much stupid proof, if you can read and follow simple instructions.

Hmmm.... I believe the big hex bolts in the center of the head go to the coolant passages. I have a head disassembled at the shop, I'll have to look to be sure.

I'm guessing you have no choice, and have to drive it. Just a quick point: I pulled the head off of an Escort that I had diagnosed in late oct. as having BHG. The cust. said they'd keep a close eye on it as well. They had it towed in Sat. for me to fix. Cyl.'s 2 and 3 on the head are both...

Nope. I'm sure I'm not the only one paying attention. Never tried to rebuild one myself, but now that I have a good idea of what is involved, I'll rebuild my old one at the shop(been thinking about switching back from the e-fans anyway). My brother-in-law does R/C cars(and helicopters, boats...

Bookmarked for future use :)

I think you found your problem... This time you might, maybe, wanna get the head milled. If its not trashed now.

I use the infamous Ford Contour dual electric 2 speed fans. They are wired correctly(separate fuse, relays, back-up switch, and thermal switch. Low speed fans for normal cooling, high speed for A/C, 8 ga. wire for power and ground). I don't have overheating problems in the summer, A/C full...

cps is a tooth off, or the timing belt is.

I changed to hex bolts as well, and add a drop of lock-tite to the tip of the threads so the bolts won't vibrate loose again.

iMod: Sounds like a loose connection. St2b: Check your battery and alternator. Both of you: Check all your grounds, clean the terminals on your battery, and make sure all of your power connectors are tight. Most 15+ year old cars have had the alternator changed or rebuilt at least once. I...

lol, you gonna mount the radiator in front of the core support? j/k Here ya go: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=1 The first page gives you the color codes if you scroll down a bit. The next sequence of pages shows the wiring for the 7MGE. You can print them...