Pics? (Please) Before meaning between the IC and the turbo, near the fender?I'd also want to add a bung for meth injection. would i mount that even closer to the IC? My thought was to mount the sensor on the backside of the pipe that connects to the TB. Between the valve covers. And then...
I hesitate to post a response here, because obviously I am NOT an expert. But, perhaps I can offer some helpful advice based on personal experience.
If you are just trying to keep your ride on the road, you could have the stock CT26 turbo rebuilt. Or find a good used one. That's your best...
Yeah, I remember seeing that as well. Anyone know of a good thread that discusses other options for the 7M? Or maybe just getting rid of the multiplex igniter is enough...
BTW- The idea of heatshrinking the coils is a very cool one, indeed. I also read about that somewhere in the 96...
Damn. Didn't think about that. Can I please retract my previous statement?? My apologies for providing un-researched advice.
The really bad thing is, I've read through most of "The Ask DreamerTheresa and/or SupraCentral Anything Thread" already, including that particular post.
Most people go with the 550's because they work well with the Lexus AFM. I hit "fuel cut" (or ignition cut, as I like to call it) a lot before the Lexus AFM. This was on the stock CT26 with a full 3" exhaust. I think you can likely extract quite a bit of power from the stock 440's. I've...
If I am using the stock 7M-GTE intake manifold, and don't want to tap or weld on the actual intake plenum, what is the most optimal placement for the IAT sensor? After what IJ posted, I was thinking in the pipe on the cold side of the intercooler, but now I'm back to thinking somewhere above...
And have you had any problems tuning it like this? I have a more-or-less stock routing on my IC piping. I don't particularly like the idea of mounting the sensor directly over the turbo, but maybe closer to the intercooler, like IJ suggests.
IAN-
You mean that you run 2 sensors, one on the before the IC and one after? Does the AEM EMS have inputs for two AIT sensors? I am very glad that you posted a reply here, as I saw many replies from you while doing research on this topic. I resisted the urge to PM you, thinking that others...
That makes a lot of sense. Does anyone know if the EMS will adjust timing to compensate for boost? I know this sounds like an elementary question, and it seems to me that this would be an obvious advantage to having a standalone.
Tried searching for this already. Here and on Google. And on the AEM forums.
I have a 7M. I am gettnig ready to install my EMS and convert to speed density. I wasa going to do EMS+AFM at first, but my tuner says "Why do it twice?". So, I'm trying to plan this out as best I can in advance...
I have a confession. I own both the TruBoost and the AEM UEGO with the gauge. When I purchased them a year ago, I really had no idea that I'd end up going standalone. When I bought those two gauges, I also ordered a 3-space gauge pod from Lotek. The serial gauge does a really nice job of...
I didn't say "don't get a boost gauge", but there's no need to buy a boost controller in addition to the EMS, when the EMS can handle that for you. By all means, get a boost gauge, but get one that doesn't cost $300. Even buying a second datastream gauge to daisy-chain for monitoring boost...
Aaron didn't knock the MAFT when I spoke to him either, but I knew after that conversation that I eventually wanted to go standalone.
You can convert to speed density using the stock pump and injectors. Speed density based tuning doesn't demand any more fuel than the MAF/AFM based tuning. It...
I was going to suggest something other than the Zeitronics, but in looking at the specs, it appears to be a quite capable unit. If I wasn't already running the AEM, I'd probably consider it.
Not to knock Suprasport, (as I have no personal experience with them) but from reading the shop...
I replaced mine once, took a gawd awful long time due to the location above the third member. You see, ever since i bought the car, it would run great for a few minutes and then run like a turd. I hypothesized everything. Bad FPR. Clogged injectors. Checked for kinks in the lines...
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