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MSD wires, Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, and over 40k miles on them. I changed the valve cover gaskets, and used regular hex head bolts, with a drop of lock tite on the end so that they don't vibrate loose over time. That was over a year ago, and not a drop of oil leaking there. As was previously...

Stickers? Where? How do I get one? I wouldn't mind rocking a Supramania sticker on my car. Need one for my brother's TA, too. ;)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61740&page=2 Check out that thread. It might help you a bit(or a lot, depending)...

Umm... Texas is a big state. Around where?

Really? I'll have to look into that. I just want to make sure that the usual pitting around the coolant jackets, and grooves from the fire rings, are removed, and that the surfaces are flat. The machine shop I use has a pretty smooth finish, but its not a mirror polish. I haven't had any...

I'll go with a composite gasket on my new motor as well. Seriously thinking about going with 10.5:1 pistons as well. Both the block deck and head will be surfaced back to a smooth, perfectly flat finish, to be certain that I get a good seal. I know a few guys making over 1000 hp, all motor...

I've had a composite head gasket(Felpro) on my car for almost three years now, no problems. I drive hard, too. Often run up to red line before I shift. Race quite a bit, as well. Like IJ said, done right, a composite gasket will do the job nicely.

I've noticed that some of the after market seals don't quite seat right. If you don't have to tap them in(just pushed in with a little pressure by hand), they're too loose, and need to be replaced. The Felpro seals fit good, and the Toyota seals fit perfect.

Oil pump: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=LU&P=10 Just so you know what the specs are, and can check the stock one. The best thing you can do is get an oil pump for a turbo motor, and shim it 5mm. Will give you an increase in pressure at idle, as well as at wot...

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=19 Book mark this site, or look in my sig. for how to get your own Toyota Service and Repair Manual

lol. That's still the wrong way. I've been doing mechanic work for quite a few years now myself. Not once have I seen any manufacturer's recommended coolant fill procedure like that. Besides, iirc, most new cars, like what you would deal with at the dealer, aren't filled at the radiator...

I really wish people would quit saying that crap. I also wonder how many people have overheated their cars this way... So, you're saying to let the motor run, and reach operating temperature, with the radiator cap off? You do understand that, without the cap, the coolant/water will boil...

Original catalytic converter? It could be plugged up.

There's a couple of points that should be covered. First, and most important: make sure the bolt holes in the block are clean. No trash, water, oil, or anything else down in the bottom of the holes. Run a tap down them to clean the threads, then blow them out again. If there is anything...

There's the problem with street racing, to use your arguement. The people around you aren't paying attention. Your argument is a little flawed, as well. Street racing is wrong, as you are endangering other people, and their property. Not that I haven't done it. Mostly just a quick...

+1 for doing it the smart, easy, and right way...

I believe you have to unbolt the pressure plate as well. There's an access cover on the bell housing. http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=5 Step 15-2

Ahh. Find a torx bit that is close to the size of the hole, should be a tiny bit bigger. Tap it into the stripped allen hole. You want to align the points on the torx to the corners of the hexagonal hole. Make sure it seats all the way in, and goes in straight. Just a guess off the top of...

Need more information. Stripped how? The allen head, the threads in the block?

I drain all fluids prior to removing a motor, just so I don't have to deal with the mess. Pull the plugs, and see how easy it turns. It should turn smooth and easy, with a ratchet and socket on the crank pulley bolt. If it's stiff, chances are it has issues. As mentioned before, the best...