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I'll show for sure, what is the address? And what time? Is this a sure thing or not?

10psi on a mild turbo upgrade may flow the same mass of air as a CT26 at 13-15psi. Best bet is to keep the stock CT26 if thats all you want to run as you'll have better turbo response.

I am having the same problems. Though I did take the elbow off to find that the exhaust housing has white on the WG port and turbine wheel... I have no overheating issues and do not beleive I consume any coolant. Sounds like I have a BHG, though I just put in a MHG about 2k miles ago...

I generally just drink hard liqour, no mixing or nothing. I drink to get drunk, not to have something taste good. With beer though, I like MGD and Guinness.

Go with a BOV in my opinion, they are adjustable. And if you get the Type S, you can always plumb it in after the AFM anyhow. Supporting mods? You should be able to run a BOV on a stock Supra with nomore problems then a modded one.

The only code I throw is 34, which is fuel cut. I use to hit fuel cut all the time at 11psi or sometimes less. Now I haven't hit it in about a week and did not change anything... It is hard to explain the whine, sounds just like a Turbo II RX7. I guess based on the two options you gave me...

I am running the GReddy Type S BOV venting to the atmosphere. I am having no issues with it. Ans NeOz can talk about the improved sound over a BPV. Only difference in engine performance I notice is the occassional drop of idle when coming up to a stop light, never dies on me though.

My Supra always runs rich. It feels weaker then I think it should feel. The turbo is not all that responsive and drops from 11 to 7psi after 5500rpms. Like I said, it runs rich, you can smell it. Kinda makes me think boost leak, though I can not see where one might be, I do plan on pressure...

Well, I tried to torque another bolt down. This time I wiped off the anti-seize. The bolt stripped once again before it reached torque spec. Granted there could still have been anti-seize residue on the threads. Do you think that would be enough to lubricate it that much? Who has torqued...

Those bolts were brand new. But yeah, i'll just coat the non-threaded section with anti-seize.

Well, I suppose that makes sense. Thing is that I am not going to go replace all the bolts. That would mean a few new control arms and such. Does kinda suck that I do not have much other choice. If it breaks it breaks and I will have to fix it.

Why does it require a lower torque? I did put anti-seize on most of my suspension bolts and they all torqued to spec fine. I do live in MN so they do salt roads, though I would never drive my Supra in the snow. But alright, the anti-seize thing was on my mind. Only one question, why does the...

I beleive these are the arms Adam Hintgen (Dr. Jonez) has/is putting on his car. He sold me his stock arms because he was getting these I beleive. That was a while ago, he probably has them on by now. Shoot him a PM.

Alright, I am so close to having my suspension project done. Just FYI, I had both subframes out, took off all arms and put in poly bushings, new ball joints, new steering rack, new steering shaft and new tie rod ends. Everything went well so far, until I decided to torque down the eccentric...

I have Eibach springs, Bilstein dampers, ST sway bars and poly bushings.

I do not know if these are the mustang wheels you speak of, but here's a pic of some on my car. They are 17x9.0 Mustang Cobra R Wheels with 255/40-17 Yokohama AVS ES100s on them. No, they are not genuine Ford.

I would say the 18x8 with a 26mm or so offset and the 18x9 with a 36mm or so offset.

Yeah, key point is if the adjusting cams are not rusted to the inner bushing sleeves... Ugh, seems to happen all the time. I would recommend going to an alignment shop with an alignment rack to get it done right rather then using whatever method the TSRM says. Not to say you can't do it right...

That could be a timing issue. Take out the CPS and set the notches to match, then set the #1 cylinder to TDC and put the CPS back in, that'll make the timing correct. To a point, you will later need to time it with the timing light of course. Also note however, me and my friend were messing...

Cut the weld and weld on new flanges.