Search results

No, you're right. It would be better to have two camshafts and a long crankshaft with half the displacement ;). Or in my case, four cams... that need to be re-timed after pulling the heads... Anyhow, here is my most recent work. I got a new engine in it, the LSE. LS-Emy. Also note there...

I am not yet equipped to do this. I have only thought about it. What I propose would still be a Supra, as that is what the title and insurance would claim it as ;). Why not buy a kit car? Because it is not what I want. If what I propose is do-able, it is exactly what I want. Even if I did...

See thats just it though. I do not want to keep the unibody. I want a tube frame with the same body dimensions as a stock MK3. Handling and weight are a part of why I want the tube frame. But also protection and making quicker and easier to work on and not worrying about rust. More boost...

The idea I have utilizes the factory doors still, though they can be stripped of reinforcement. I hate unibody the design, it just seems not uniformed. I think a tube frame would be much more uniform and all of the body panels could be fiberglass. I would not care so much about my body panels...

Take the intake sensor (AFM) off along with the accordian hose. You will see two hoses coming off the turbo. Pull those hoses and it looks like that MBC will come right off (doesn't appear fastened down). Now, connect one hose to where one of the places where a hose was located on the turbo...

Do not pry against a mating surface that needs to seal. Especially one with these types of tolerances. Think guys, put a bar in one of the ports coming off the head and pry it loose like that. Just be careful of the valves. And those 14mm plugs are not decoration. They hold down the valley...

What do you guys think about these types of frames? What would be better than a Supra weighing less than 2700 pounds with a very solid frame that looks stock from the outside from the most part? I find this idea very appealing. I kinda had an idea of how it could work. I think it would be...

The LS6 will have stock heads and bottom-end. However it will have the 2002+ LS6 cam and likely have TPiS long tube headers and a sort of a 3" dual exhaust, and intake filter with a good tune. Later I plan on upgrading with better heads and a larger cam. Maybe run ~500hp N/A at the crank.

Why would I need to bring stainless to a shop to flare but aluminum and mild steel I can flare myself? From my understanding, stainless is considered a softer steel.

You can buy replacements from Toyota likely. There are brackets that hold the screws in with a spring. You can get at the rear ones by taking the headliner off the targa top, there there is two bolts per bracket on the rear of the top for each bolt. The front bolts are held in the car...

Alright, I ended up buying another flare kit from Sears this time. It cost about $16, $10 less than advanced auto... Anyhow, I tried just once with this kit and I am much happier with it. Not perfect but I should get better at it, and I will try to do what IJ did and put a flat step in...

I know I can buy the lengths, but then I do not get to route the PRECISELY how I would like to. Also, I bought them in the short lengths and it was cheaper to buy the tube with two nuts then it was to just buy two nuts... I do not see how adding a couple would make it safer then doing your own...

I plan on not only removing my ABS system, but also rerouting the lines inside the passenger compartment perhaps so that I can make make bias changes using an adjustable brake proportioning valve. The stock lines just are not going to be useful to me.

What are your guys' experiences/preferences for brake tubing benders, cutters and flare tools? I bought a cutter and bender from advance auto, they work good. However the flare tool I picked up from Advance just sucks. I can not get a centered flare at all. I have found other kits online and...

I have been working/planning out an LS6/T-56 swap into my Supra. I decided while I was at it to completely strip the car and only put a few things back in when I am done. Here are my first pics of the progress. I just finished pulling the engine and transmission tonight.

A camber plate? That can not be done on double independent wishbone suspension... You can change camber of increasing the length of the lower arms some how, or decreasing the length of the top arm.

I imagine thats possible. Though I have heard the Torsen diffs out of the 1JZ supras are not stout enough to sustain nice hp numbers. Especially if I plan on running an LS1/LS6.

LOL, have you ever driven a car with max preload on coil overs and totally stripped out? My roommate's 240 was that way. He got stock all the time because one of his rear wheels was off the ground. I know what you mean about breaking traction easier. However many complain about the under...

Wouldn't the gas example apply the same for soft rear suspension as well?

Wait, now tell me how stiffening up the rear would change braking. In a turn sure I can see it, but straight line? I do not get it.