Search results

Cant say for sure if you are doing something wrong with emachineshop or not, but I can tell you that they are very expensive unless you start doing production or large quantity runs. seach in yahoo or google and you should be able to find a local shot to you that could do it for you...

I highly doubt that it was a 1UZ or a 3UZ.. Most likely a 2UZ. The 1 and 3UZ engines have a bad tendency to start splitting the blocks in half once you pass about 800 to 900 hp..... I am by no means saying that they are week though, cause if so, I wouldn't be in the process of putting a 1UZ with...

That is true, but there is a substantial torque difference (especially midrange) and that is what makes it that much better. Torque is what makes a car fun to drive, not horsepower.

yeah, you can install a an adjustable proportioning valve or start playing with pad compond to adjust the bias. The surface area of the pad has almost no effect the bias. Yes you are covering more area, but the pressure will be reduced. Remember, PRESSURE = FORCE/AREA... So if the calliper is...

Remember, these numbers are not exact cause of non constant veriables. The calculations are pretty close though and are more then suffiecent for street use.

Supra7MG here are some numbers for you. All numbers are calculated using an assumed 400psi M/C outlet pressure. (This is a typical pressure for normal light to medium stops and also happens to be roughly where the stock proportioning valve starts to take over) Stock brakes are as follows...

Yeah, I'd be happy to, just need to know rotor diameters

321 only has two different varients, 321L and 321H L grade has less then .03% carbon H grade has between .04% and .10% carbon They are both about the same price with the H grade being a tad bit cheaper and still would be higher in material cost the the selling price

Eric, I am not saying that what you said is wrong anything like that, but looking at the diagram on pages 10 and 11 of this link ( http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf ) it does seam that it is in a DC series circuit according to the diagram on page 10 and being that there is a diode on the...

Not 100% sure about the toyota coils, but most wastespark coils have to have both leads hooked up at the same time to have spark on both plugs. On a typical wastespark system, the spark will jump from the electrode to the ground strap on one plug and from the ground stap to the electric on the...

I dont see that either unless the others had the bracket grounded in another way. Today was not the first time that I have seen that wire keep coils from firing.

I dont know jay, I just fixed a car today that that wire was broken and it wouldn't fire, put a new eyelet on it and reconnected it to the coil bracket and the car fired perfectly.....

Have you double checked the short ground lead thats attached to the coil mounting bracket is connected on both ends and not broken anywhere?

Sorry that I cant be more help except that I highly doubt that it is SUS321. The cost of material alone would well exceed the buy it now price if it were 321.

Well I cant say for sure because of not knowing what piston size they are using on the front calipers. The Forged superlite's come with several different piston sizes. As for the rears, you'll be fine. The MKIV caliper has the same area IIRC. IIRC, they both (MKIII and MKIV) use 38mm pistons in...

Glad to hear that all went fine and glad that I was able to help ya out! ;)

If the BBK is done correcty, then no, the stock M/C will be perfectly fine. I designed and built my BBK (wilwood 6pots on 13" rotors up front) and the peddle is actually stiffer then stock, also soon to have 12.75" and wilwood 4pots on the rear and the peddle will be the same or possibly better...

Yeah, thats what I am thinking about doing and just doing the turbos at the same time as the swap / install..... oh hottscennessey btw, I am assuming that you go the CPS and there wasn't any problems.... Is this correct?

Jake, very very slow..... I am actually stuck as to which route to go. I cant make up my mind as to whether to go N/A (but not stock) for a while or twin turbo right off the bat. The problem that I am running into is if I go TT right off the bat then the car is going to be down longer and...

Is it just one piston that you are having the problem with or the set?