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Ford pumps are very noisy and whinny. We ad some stuff in the oil to quiet them down. It works. Our pumps are built similar. If it were mine (and it was last year), I would get some and put it in. Use a cheap 'kitchen baster' with a piece of fuel line to suck out the fluid in the resevoir...

I'm thinking torque convertor.

If you are too low on fuel, the pump won't pick up whats there. Put at least 5 gallons in. Also...a tip top all...fuel pumps are located at the bottom of the tank to keep them cool. Driving around on/close to empty all the time will burn it up. And, as I just said to Nick M an his a/c...

Like Tony said. Check the water drain tube at the firewall down under the heater water valve under the hood. With the fan on high, you should be able to feel air coming out of the rubber tube. Its purpose is to allow the water that condenses on the evaporator to drain away. They sell stuff...

That's how it is sometimes. I was thinking about it 2 days ago. I hear it all the time from customers. "It was working fine yesterday". I tell them, "Man made it, its gonna break".:biglaugh:

True on the colors. I just read that Ford and Chrysler are dying theirs Yellow, and it has silicates AND oats (organics). All this variety and changing tells me 'they' really don't know what they are doing. Change your coolant, whatever kind you use, every 2 years to be safe.

'89 N/A. no fan out in front of radiator. 2 little electric that only work when a/c 'high side' pressure gets up to a certain point. Usually not on when cruising at hwy speeds, as enough air passing by cools the condensor. On the passenger side of engine compartment, along the frame, out...

Royal Purple or Amsoil for everything. Check their websites out for more info. Toyota Red coolant can only be gotten from Toyota. You car came with regular 'green' coolant. It has everything in it to do the job. I stick with it. I also run a bottle of 'Lubegard KOOL IT '. You can read...

Painting the cooler (or radiator) takes away some of the cooling its supposed to do. The paint acts as an insulator, so it holds heat in.:icon_evil There is some spray paint you can get (parts store??) just for radiators. It has metal in it to help let the heat out to the air.:biglaugh...

There is a simple fact about A/C systems. The freon molecules are smaller than Oxygen. The freon WILL leak out. That is why they switched to R134a. The best thing you can do to help your system, and save you $$$, is to RUN it year round, for at least 10 minutes every 3-4 days minimum...

Without running tranny fluid thru a radiator, I'd definately get a large cooler. Like a 18x18 or so. One that 'swirls' the oil inside to get better heat transfer. I'd put it out front of the a/c condensor, or radiator if the a/c has been removed. They also make smaller tranny coolers with...

Jetjock.... 22 years ASE master, I've seen just about it all. I read several trade mags to keep up with all the new engines, and such. As to 'burping', yes, you need to get the car raised up high. I raised mine till the tailpipe was almost touching the ground. This gets the top of the...

If you are talking a smog inspection, are they run by the state?? or private?? Private...try to find one that will give you a free re-test if you fail. The print out will us help figure your problem out if you do fail.:biglaugh:

Dirty Fuel filters can cause your problem. They can also act up intermittantly. You can drive for awhile, then the dirt finally covers up the filter material, and 'bam', car starts die-ing out. Also, the very first thought that came to mind was TPS. I had an '87 N/A in the shop last week...

You should test the fuel delivery system. Fuel pressure, and pressure drop. Perhaps an injector is leaking. Today we had a nissan with an injector stuck wide open. Dumped fuel into engine like crazy. Shit happens, parts fail, and I make a living.:biglaugh:

My hot water runs all the time, as the VSV went out, so I just plugged the vacuum straight to the water valve. As said above, the normally functioning water valve only shuts the water off when the setting is at 65*. The flaps in the heater/ac will prevent air from going thru the heater...

First...go here and read the thread on 'burbing the cooling system. http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=22 Second....have a BHG block test performed before spending ANY $$$ at the shop flushing and oil changes etc. Your symtoms are consistant with a BHG. Better to find out...

Car off, key out of ignition. Put a test light between the + battery post and the terminal, (which you removed from the battery). Turn off inside dome light. If the testlight is on, go inside car and start removing fuses until the testlight goes out. Read what that fuse controls, then track...

I looked at mine, and it is connected to another plug. It seems to run down towards the tranny. Also...is your throttle position cable hooked up to the throttle?? Not the accelerator cable to the gas pedal, but the other one that goes down to the trans. There is a section in the TSRM on...

Toyota dealer can tell you if the part #'s are the same on the knock sensor, n/a or turbo. Restricted exhaust comes to mind on the original problem of bogging down above 4k rpm, and overheating. Cat conveter, muffler, pinched pipe ?? Cracks in the air intake can also cause the AFM 'trap...