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Obviously, it does matter who does the body work - since that statement is completely false. There are plenty of people who have had their molded bomex rears stay crack-free for more than two years. To do just the rears, it should be significantly less than that. I did a similar project (I...

pics

Well, if you use a Bomex rear with bomex sides - the lip is uniform. Or, if you use a Kaminari rear with kaminari sides = the lip is uniform. You can't really expect to use Bomex rear and Kaminari sides and expect it to be perfect.

:3d_frown: :nono: :runaway: :slap: :hsugh: ::salute:: :eek: :rofl:

Gorgeous.... Lol to those people giving you hard time about ditching the teal :icon_razz Black forever.... Great wheels too!

If you can find a balance of metallic and hue that you like - it's going to be very easy for your paint guy to darken it up a bit. He should be able to take the paint code you give him and look at the pictures (and listen to your description) and come up with what you are looking for. I...

How do you have coolant underneath your oil cap and not in the pan? Am I an idiot here? (certainly OK to say yes :icon_razz )

Now, come on -- there is no need to bring logic into this thread. It has done just fine without it :icon_bigg

:sadwavey: :sadwavey: :sadwavey:

You sort of missed the point of kntmikado's post. Let me restate - at this point, it doesn't even matter if you have a BHG (which you do). The reason it doesn't matter is because you already KNOW you have coolant in your oil. This is what does the big damage. So, the point is, even if...

$5,500 - car ~$6,500 - parts

What's wrong with the composite you are running now? At this point a better use of time and money would be tuning - make sure you don't overly stress the composite gasket. If you have a good seal now, I wouldn't just change the gasket unless you have other big plans. If you DO have big plans...

I wouldn't expect it to be that expensive (although I know how some body shops are :3d_frown: ) I would expect them to charge you ~1-2 hours labor for it. It's certainly not hard to do if you want to take care of it yourself.

I don't let it idle for any amount of time - maybe on occasion enough to change the CD track. I don't drive aggressively though until it reaches full operating temperature. I usually keep it <~2000 rpms until it is warm.

These rears really should be molded in. I have seen some people who have gotten away with not molding them - but at that point they only look passable, not necessarily good. They were designed to molded and anything less is really half-assing it IMO. Since I know you're going to do the...

Here's a crappy attempt at cf:

+35 from my seven personal email addresses. I have ten various business addresses also - I will do those when I have a couple minutes. I can't wait to see the build thread :icon_bigg

Rod knock?

Bottom of the bumper is a different shape and size. The mounting points don't really matter as you can mount an aftermarket lip as creatively as you want.