Well watch for drips. If it was leaking around the master cylinder or booster there would be a drip on the bottom more than likely. I'm kinda new with supra's but doesn't the rear e brake operate like a drum brake? If the e brake has a brake cylinder then I bet that has gone bad. Or try checking...
What is afterfire? I would guess it is excess gas going into the exhaust and then igniting. I have a sound like that sometimes in my car with stock BPV. It's like a popping sound. It sounds like a flame is coming out of the exhaust its cool haha. But It's probably not enough gas to actually come...
I've never seen inside a Supra diff lol. So is there a ring gear? Is the lsd/carrier held down with bearing caps? Or how does it get bolted into the diff casing? I used the prussian blue. If you will be using that stuff you should take a picture of the pattern.
That's neat. I just did an lsd install on my 2wd toyota pickup. I used a detroit tru trac in the 7.5 rearend. So do you use that marking stuff? I mean the grease stuff? You just apply it on the gears and spin it and you can tell how they mesh together by the pattern of the grease.
OP said awd though. So a 4wd isn't the same. You would at least want to add some lsd's or lockers. So it wouldn't be just a swap ($$). Plus I've owned a few 4wd minitrucks and they don't handle worth a **** when in 4wd. All you need is a stock supra (already conveniently lifted) and an lsd...
Probably stock ones. And they would be drastically thinner, at the bottom at least. All I can think of is some kind of caster adjusment. Or spacing the upper arm somehow to move it fore or aft(not sure what end is hitting) on the mount to make it clear. Or depending on how close it is to hitting...
Do your headlights catch on the nose piece (or anything around it) when it retracts? The reason I ask you is my headlight is doing the same thing and my nose cone slighly overlaps my light making the motor have to work hard to actually fully retract the light.
Doesn't JIC make coilovers? I don't have Teins but they are supposedly a wider design then most other brands. Another thought I had is that it may be possible that they are MKIV uppers. If they are please let me know lol.
When you have a turbo car the charcoal canister has to have a check valve on it for some reason. I'm no expert but I would say it's because you are dealing with higher pressures then you would deal with in a n/a car. You wouldn't have to get a whole new canister just a check valve installed in...
PERFECT! haha mine is exactly the same and I don't see it as being too big of a problem. I looked in the door vents that pop off too just to see it all inside there. I can't wait to see you fix it lol. Oh and don't stab yourself on the mesh wire that is inside of that sound deadener right there...
Yea the compression is the seal on the one end. But the thread needs a seal of some kind. I would recommend lots of threadlocker. It is good for withstanding vibrations and there are specific threadlockers for many applications.
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