Search results

I totally agree, this is not a permanent solution. I am looking for a replacement exhaust housing. Consider this a WTB, especially if the housing is located in Canada! Jim Edit: All sorted. Another hotside, another trip to the coaters, and it's done.

Well I have taken the turbo off, separated the hot-side (three hours later! frick that was a long job!), and I'm getting it coated. The reason I am just going for coating is that I'm getting a bunch of things done at once, and the cost for the hot-side is minimal, so if it blows up, I'll just...

I have all the plastic undercovers in place and they are in good condition, so I should be ok for water. It doesn't rain much here either. If the same thing happens with my stock electronics setup, then I will have to turn down the mbc to avoid fuel cut! Is this right? I won't mind.... slower...

I have been thinking of relocating my apexi filter to beneath the passenger headlight, for cooler air. I wanted to test what kind of a difference this would make to air mass, so I did a bit of an experiment. Keep in mind that this is NOT a controlled environment! Your results will vary...

Now you're talkin! ;-) I'm just finishing up an Applied Degree program at SAIT here, and I'm a regular at the Race City drags in the summer. Can't wait to get out there and race! (Maybe next week if I have time)

Good point. I didn't consider that.

Me and outofstep PM'd on this subject. Here are my current thoughts: The number of times you have to shift while going down the strip will likely remain the same, whether you shift at redline, or slightly before. If you can avoid a shift by going to redline, then by all means do this! However...

Hahahaha, thanks man! Must be all the cows roaming around the place... LOL If anyone actually takes me seriously, please post up so I can have a good laugh. (Or other zany reasons!)

You bet! There are lots of us around here. I live ten minutes from Eau Claire. Jim

Hang on a sec... if you have a spring that weak, surely the exhaust gases will simply push the wastegate open themselves! This is why there is a spring on the wastegate in the first place, to stop this happening.

Optimum shift points can be calculated if you have a current dyno graph that shows horsepower numbers all the way up to redline. Combine this with the shift point calculator at http://www.bgsoflex.com/shifter.html and the "MKIII gear ratios" thread in the FAQ...

That customwheelsdirect image led me to these! Ace Zeus, 18x8.5, 5x114.3 pattern, 38mm offset. :icon_bigg

Take your pick: http://enkei.com/Performance%20specs/evo5.html

On second thoughts, I don't think the crack is accessible for welding. I'll have the turbo off in a couple weeks and I'll take some pictures then. I'll get an opinion from the coaters when I bring the hot side to them. If the coating can properly fill the crack, I should be ok. I should mention...

Thanks for the info. I'll see about getting that crack TIG welded, but it might be tricky because from what I remember, the crack is fairly far into the snail. I guess I'll see. The turbo will definately be bead blasted, and coated inside and out.

I'm planning to get the hot side of my CT-26 ceramic coated. To do this of course I have to separate it from the rest of the turbo. After reading MDC's great thread on turbo rebuilds, http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3991 I understand the process to get the housing off...

You mean this? http://suprafest.ca/

I'd love the meet to be in July as opposed to August... wherever it's held! But that isn't likely to happen if we're combining this with pacnw.

That will probably melt the plastic after prolonged use. I have the exact same setup and I cut a semicircle out of the plastic to accomodate the muffler being so tucked in. Here's a photo: Jim

Why don't you test out your stock bov first? If you haven't increased your boost a working stock bov is still ok. Check out the cygnusx1.net pages for info.