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Must be because he's a "certified auto mechanic"...

Then you should not take take the same approach to fixing it...

....and yet many owners are too cheap to spring for paper. I'll also point out the later year manuals have less information. For example rebuilding of the AC compressor is absent.

All except the copper part. The real point however is much of what he spouted is nonsense.

Thought you were done? The only point proved is MSD is in business to sell things and that not only does your knowledge end at backyard mechanic but you obviously have no clue that right behind oil aftermarket ignition components are the biggest scam perpetrated on an uneducated and gullible...

Lmao! Thank you. Seriously, that link is better than anything I could have ever said. Manuel sure knows his stuff!

Welcome Nick. I often tell people as long as they can put aside the idiocy going on there DC is actually a great place to visit for many reasons. Every American should go at least once. Also, RIP to Scott Carpenter, who passed away the day you posted...

Better to leave leave them on, measure at the box, and proceed based on the results. Course, while there one should verify it really is the TDS before doing even that...

Perhaps you should be less picky...

The prosecution rests. At least you didn't offer unreliable information...

Without further investigation I wouldn't be so quick to blame the TDS...

The truth is out there but you'll never learn it by listening to morons...

18? Really?

Snap throttle test....

Not really. If there is on your car you'd better replace the air fliter...

Yes, it is safe to assume that and no, it doesn't matter which pin goes where (solenoids used in this car aren't polarized) although you ought to pin it per the manual if for no other reason than to keep the documentation correct...

Jaded? Perhaps. Mean? Hardly. Might be time to turn in the Man Card...

I r corn-fuzed. If you can't interpret the schematic why are you connecting stuff to the system?

That pretty much ended it for me right there.

11 for the ECU. Fwiw voltage (measured at the battery) should not sag below 10 when cranking. If it does the battery is either discharged or has gone tango uniform...