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Well Dam Dude and I thought that I was getting somewhere. Yes I let the car fully warm up and infact when it does completely warm up, the VF Signals jumps from the .09 to the 2.10 settings and doesnt miss a Beat after that. If Im correct the MKIV TT pump pushes more FP than the Walboro pump...

Ok, Were I disconnected the VPC/SAFC and put the Stock AFM back on. Started the car up and the Initial VF Signal was .05 but after letting it Idle for it bit, It moved to 1.1v Turn it off and restarted it, VF Signal went to 2.1 and the A/F guage at Idle didnt go rich at all. I noticed...

One trick that helps is to use the blue wire (normally for MAF Voltage input) and hook it up to the Vf output pin on the ECU. That way, you can see if the ECU is happy or not just by going into The ETC... Sensor Check option on the SAFC. Vf: 0 volts: full rich 1 volt: rich 2-3 volts: OK 4...

Well, I just installed my New Wideband Sensor today. Absolutely no change in what the car is Doing. Still reading the say way as I said in the Above Post. I dont know what the hell is going on here. I pulled the AEM controller and made sure that the settings were in the correct Spot. Turned...

I have Reset the ECU already but I havent unplugged to SAFC. Wouldnt that Affect the VPC since the SAFC is wired into it. If not then I will try that and see what it does. Robert

Sorry about that. Well, Everything has been moved back a good 3 feet away from the turbo as the AEM Manual said. this is what Im getting now and Its pretty close to the Exact same thing as before. Start the car up and It Idles correctly but when you Start to Drive it, It starts out running...

Any other Suggestions on a Clutch Upgrade? Does anyone Know what the Holding Capacity is for the CF Dual Friction clutch that I have? Robert

Problem with the MK2s is that you have to do some Modding to get the R154 to Fit ie..... Having a Driveshaft Made, Beating out the Tranny tunnel, Turbo clutch Kit which is Dam Expensive to say the least, and Cutting some of the Shifter tunnel as the Turbo tranny is 2" Longer. I think this is why...

Hey all, Well if you dont know, I have a 7MGTE in my MK2 supra. Well since I switched to a 67mm Turbo on my car, The Clutch Setup that I have on my car cant hold the Power. Im running a Centerforce Dual friction clutch Kit for Probably 5000 miles now. Anyways, I need something that will hold...

Only pops the Code when Im under Boost, Any other time I dont see it. If you remember earlier in this tread, I mentioned that I got a code once before and that was when I was under boost also. Im using a O2 sensor from the Ford Mustang since its the 3 Wire O2 sensor that you all recommended...

They are Picking up the Bungs today so they can do the welding up in the morning. I just Poped a code 21 while Driving so its a good thing Im going to move them Down stream. Code 21..... Detection of Oxygen Sensor Detrioration (Oxygen Sensor Signal) To close and too dam Hot. Robert

Start Engine first time in morning engine Idles and Cruises at 14.4 to 15.0 runs great, I can drive it for a Hour and the A/F ratio wont change until I shut it off. Shut car off, Immediately Start back up..... A/F drops to 11.5 to 12.8 and normal driving is same range. Lean it out with SAFC...

Yeah, I think they are like $63.00 on a Site that I found. As for running it, I have had a for awhile and when I went to the V-Band Type setup is when I started having this Problem. Again, It being too close to the Exhaust didnt help either. Lesson Learned I suppose. So Im moving it 36" or more...

A weld-in M18 X 1.5 boss is supplied for sensor installation. Mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of time or plan on running leaded...

So you are saying to relocate the sensor and Buy another Sensor itself wont fix it?