You can cut and splice if you do it right. Safe bet is just to replace the whole wire (and knock sensor clips while you're at it, they're probably brittle if not broken).
I'm very happy with it so far. Time will be the true test but I'm confident in this stuff. I got the engine painting kit and probably have enough left for 3 more motors. I love the look it gives too, 100x better than the bare block.
New gauges in the cluster, plus red needles for the factory ones:
The Prosports are white backlit and the factory gauges will be changed to match.
Also got a GA70 9K tach:
I'm thinking I'll switch out the turbo LED with a red one, hook it to the AEM and use it as a shift light :)
Last...
Please inform us as to how you intend to 'stretch' metal wires 18 inches longer. Whoever gave you that idea needs to be :slap:
Honestly if it was possible to 'stretch' it, why would anyone bother extending it? Yes it's a pain, but this is an engine swap we're talking about. If you want a walk...
An interesting point to note is that the 2JZ provides ground wires for the O2 sensor and ignitor instead of relying on the bracketry like they did with the 7M. There must have been a reason for that. I'm pretty sure "it couldn't hurt" wasn't it :)
I'd say take the PS pump off, put the AC pump on, then put the PS pump back on after you get the engine in and attach the lines. The PS pump isn't too difficult to bolt on with the engine in the car.
The story of the Supra:
FYI the 7M-GE oil filter stud does not fit the 1JZ. Now I'm looking for a standard 3/4"x16 stud.
I wired in some Deutsch connectors for the gauge sensors, and added the wiring for them into the main harness. I also moved the pigtail for the narrowband oxygen sensor...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.