I replaced my pinion seal one year ago.. i noticed the pinion flange where the seal ride on, had some grooves or scrach mark on it from seal riding on it.. i didnt think of it much.. replaced seal.. but few months ago, it started leaking again.. Now, i replaced the seal again, and the flange...
I have lexus afm with 550s, WB high-flow fuel pump, and AFPR.. with J-tube bypassed.. my car runs and idles perfect.. but runs rich.. (learned from the smog test).. mixture is at 13.9 at 25 mph testing..
I had a crack on my stock intercooler (87T).. it caused the car to run lean.. (vacuum leak during normal driving with no boosting), and EGTs went up the roof.. this caused hair-line cracks in the turbo exhaust housing.. I had to get the housing welded ($$).. I cleanedup the crack on the...
One of the other forums, I heard of this one supra owner washed his engine with hose.. then dried.. water was left in the spark plug holes.. that made # 5 cylinder not to fire.. he drove it to school... without knowing one of plug not firing.. all that unburned gas ended up in the cat...
550s + Lexus + AFPR at 30 psi still makes my car run rich.. so much that it does not pass inspection.. fails on HC content... If I set the pressure at 25 psi, the car runs crappy... surges.. all kinds of trouble..
I had gas smell in the car... it was the fuel pressure damper.. the diaphram tore a hole and leaked gas out through the sides of the top plastic cover thing..
seal pick from autozone is ~$7.. it work like a champ.. why mess with the crank with something else and cause damage that can escalate to several thousands of $$$ ?
you can fill the volume behind the pilot bearing with greese. Then take that clutch alignment tool you get with your clutch kit (if you have R154, you dont need the alignment tool) and drive the nose of the tool into the center hole of the bearing with a hammer.. this should drive the bearing out..
I say.. if you can save.. get something newer than 87... i have an 87T.. well taken care of.. but still something is always broken.. damn... have put too much money into it.. older the car -- more the parts cost..
I used two hydraulic jacks. One supported the front of the jack at and the other on the back. kinda let them down at the same time.. i did it very slowly to prevent it from dropping the tranny. When both jacks were down to the minimum, I rolled the jack on to my creeper, which was placed right...
I placed a wrech on the engine side and used 2-foot extension of 3/8" driver on the tranny side to get to the top bolt of the starter. I think one main thing to remember is to be careful not to break the knock sensor (if turbo) next to the starter..
I pulled the tranny with car on jack stands.. I must say, the harder part was dropping the tranny with two floor jacks, and hardest was lifting the tranny back in with two floor jacks.. but doable.. with a buddy (a must!). I installed ClutchMaster Stage I (stock disk with modified PP .. it...
The only other information in my inspection report is the dilution number:
at 15 MPH
Dilution is 14.1
at 25 MPH
Dilution is 13.9
As I understand, the dilution at the optimum condition is 14.7 Both cases here, i am below that.. (too rich).. Also, I checked the Vf reading yesterday at 2500...
I like the ethanol idea.. will that cause any sensors to go bad? like the O2 sensor or some??? or what if I mix one gallon of gas and one gallon of ethanol ? but then again, when the fuel gauge shows empty, there is still good amount of gas in tank right??
Thanks for all your replies.. Here is the CO and NOx numbers from the test:
15 MPH
CO: 0.13% (Limit 0.61%)
NO: 381 ppm (Limit 823ppm)
25 MPH
CO: 0.38% (Limit 0.64%)
NO: 570 ppm (Limit 750ppm)
The Random-Tech 3" High-Flow cat is about 2.5 years old. The exhaust pipe is very black ...
My 87T (5spd) failed emissions today. It passed CO and NO levels (at about 50% of the spec value). The emissions are checked at 15 mph and 25 mph in Virginia. HC level was 108 ppm (limit is 108ppm) at 15 mph and 181 ppm (limit is 105ppm) at 25 mph.
Mods include: Lexus AFM with screw...
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