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I've swapped over. Clutch master is fine. Hardline is fine, too, but you'll need the softline from the chassis to the slave cylinder. You'll need the driveshaft, and if you want your speedo to be correct, you'll need a matching differential. The W58 would have come with a 4.300:1, and the R154...

I'm pretty sure that my 7M-GTE has rod knock. Kinda bummed about this, but it is what it is, and I've got decisions to make. I haven't touched bearings in a very long time, and never on a 7M. Not looking forward to doing this, either, but if it's what I've got to do, then it's what I've got...

Well, given that the 2JZ is 8.5:1, I'm pretty sure that shoudn't be a problem, but the numbers are what the numbers are. If you are tuning to the absolute peak of what you can do, then the increase in compression ratio will reduce the amount of boost that you can run, but I'm pretty sure that...

Stock compression = 8.4:1 Displacement = 2954cc Bore = 83.4mm Cylinders = 6 Each cylinder is 492.33cc, each combustion chamber is 66.53cc. A change in the gasket thickness of 0.27mm will result in a reduction of the combustion chamber size of 1.475cc This results in a static compression ratio...

You'll need to inspect it. Take the elbow off, and apply pressure to the wastegate with a pump. It should hold pressure, and AT 7-9 PSI pressure, the wastegate should open. Also, inspect the line to the wastegate, since that's the kind of behavior that will happen if there is a crack in that line.

@mcevans: My personal experience with basic cheap stuff is that once you have something better, you will use the better one. The cheap one won't get used again, until you do something stupid to the good one, at which point you'll remember why you don't use the cheap one, and get rid of it.

Exhaust cam, zero difference. (As expected, same part number and all.) The NA intake cam opens a bit earlier with a bit less lift. I think duration was a touch longer as well, but since I didn't take a full profile, it'd be hard to say for certain. Practical result from anecdotal evidence is...

If you're going to do the upgrades, then get the turbo that you'll eventually want. Don't buy anything that you're planning to replace later. This might mean bypassing the upgraded CT26 altogether. It's a pricey solution, but cheaper than getting the 57 trim upgrade then the "real" turbo later...

Water pump. Particularly with the grinding noise. If the fan clutch fails like that, then the fan spins at input shaft speed. You get a lot of wind noise from the fan when revving, but no grinding. BTDT. Get the OEM water pump, too. I went through 2 third party ones before getting the OEM...

Ditto. I'd buy the pump from a reliable source. The Mk4 Denso pump is probably worth it, too. Drop-in, plug 'n play fitment too. Reliability is a good thing in the fuel system! As for using it on the stock system, it certainly won't hurt anything.

I'd be tempted to cascade the radiators instead. Have the coolant go through the rear radiator first, then through the front one. This will result in more efficient cooling for the surface area than running both in parallel, though it will require more plumbing. Overall though I'd go with a...

If your car is an '86 then I assume that it's an NA. It will have the W58 transmission, which will not work for the R154 that comes connected to the 1JZ. If you had an R154 already, then it would work fine. You will also have a 4.300:1 differential. If you're in the States, then it's probably...

This happens if you don't let the car thoroughly warm up, and to some degree it's just the winter. You will get condensation in the engine if there's any humidity around, particularly if the temperature has just dropped. Making sure that the car always warms up fully will reduce this, as will...

Idle manifold pressure will be directly linked to idle RPM. Higher pressure will make for higher RPM. A leak in the intake between the turbo and throttle body will leak boost, but isn't really in the equation when the throttle body is closed. Anything here large enough to cause idle AFRs to be...

Using Toyota stock on my Koyo.

I've repaired about a half dozen of these, but the part isn't all that expensive. Get a short heavy gauge wire (10-16AWG) and put a couple of spade terminals on them. Jumper pins 6 and 3 on the wiring harness and turn the fan on high. If it works then it's definitely the resistor. If not, then...

For my car, whenever I had starting issues, the problem was the starter itself, not the battery. The contact solenoid wears down over time, resulting in the starter motor not getting enough voltage, or none at all eventually. Replacing that was a big help. The other problem that people overlook...

Downpipe is different, cat-back is identical between JZA70 and MA70. The Tanabe cat-back that I have is for a JZA70, but works on my MA70 with zero fitment issues.

Yep. Or an R154 from a car with ABS.

I can't see any way of removing the pan from a 7M while it's still bolted into the engine bay. My engine started making a similar sound at the end of this season, I'm kinda bummed about it. ~2k RPM, and it starts. Pulling the valve cover is easy, and probably the best place to start. Rule out...