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Remove the bolts that hold the shifter into the case and remove the shifter. Make sure that the shifter bottom bushing is sitting in the little cup. Most likely it popped out of the little cup.

Dude, Aaron is the man. I am so glad that your shop is so close to me :naughty:

Hey guys, I am looking to get a new catback exhaust system and was wondering if you guys have any pics of exhaust sytems on your car. I would really like to see what the Blitz NUR spec looks like especially. thanks :1zhelp:

I doubt that someone would be stupid enough to not put the rod bearing back in. Chances are that that block had already been taken apart and when they found the problem, they just threw it back together and sold it..

your crankshaft has been welded and then cut to .030".:nono: I would definately not use that. Usually they weld cranks to get them back to standard size, but if yours was welded and cut to get it to .030 then no way man, don't use that.

does the car seem to have power and pull like it is fully boosting?

I would have the machine shop inspect the block first before you buy anything. What is the reason that you know that you need a rebuild? make sure the cylinders and crankshaft are not scored badly and that nothing is badly bent or broken.

As far as the main and rod bearings go, it all depands on the condition of your crankshaft. You can just polish it if it is in really good condition or have it ground undersized if it isn't that great and then used oversized rod and main bearings. The problem with grinding your crankshaft is...

my teacher is a professional machinest and he said the same thing, because we have a torque plate, but it will only accept 4 cyl and 8 cyl. If the head bolt holes are close to the cylinder walls, then yes what you said will have almost the same effect as a torque plate.

yah man, I really don't like the lights on my car, they are ugly.:puke:

I already replaced the radiator and thermostat and its getting a new water pump during my build up. I have already cleaned the interior but it still needs a little work. I absolutely hate the wheels on this car! I Also don't like the look of the stock 88 tail lights. Will the JDM rear lights...

yah you are right man, I was origanally going to just throw some new rod bearings in to cure my rod knock, but since the motor already has 130k I might as well just rebuild the whole thing, so I can be worry free about the motor for a while.

yah, I was lucky, I traded my 92 eclipse GSX for the car and I am very happy (except for the rod knock). I have had 3 dsm's and I just got tired of them.

the pics are at the link that I posted. And the guy I got it from just had some guy weld a pipe on the rfl outlet. You can see it in the pictures.

by the way, these are the mods: 1988 Toyota Supra Sport Top, SP-58-GT Turbo@10psi, Apexi TT, Apexi SAFC, Apexi Intake, TurboXS RFL-recirc'd, Walbro 255, ST Sway Bars, Defcon 3" TurboBack, Momo Wheels, Autometer Gauges and damn this turbo has some lag, but when it spools it hits...

alright guys here are some pics, Just to let you know the rear blackouts are gone and I ditched the gay exhaust. All I need now is some new wheels and a lowering kit. when I drove the car their was no knocking at all, and the next day it started to knock. I think it had some poor tuning issues...

Hey guys whats up, Just got my 88 Supra turbo and I blew the motor up within 1 week of the purchase. I have probably the cleanest supra in town but I think that it wasn't tuned right when I got it and now I have rod knock. Time for a fully built motor and a big dent in my wallet.:aigo:

yah, I think that you guys are right. I have talked to a few people and done some research and you guys are definately right. Rebuilding my motor is definately the way to go. I is going to be more expensive, but I will have a fresh motor and won't have to worry about anything. thanks for all of...

I would go 1jz, but I already have a bitchin turbo for the 7mgte. The car pulled extremely hard before it crapped out.

yah, but for the rebuild, I am going to need at the least new gaskets, water pump, oil pump, rings, bearings, hardware, timing belt @ acc., machine work. That is not counting the cost that if I have to grind my crankshaft 10/10 which most likely I will have to. If I include forged pistons and...