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have one, it's got a couple breaks in it that I'm repairing at the moment, then it'll be back on the car... ...either that, or I'll say "screw it" and buy a bomex lip or something, but I think the front end would be WAYYYY too low and it would get eaten to pieces

So I got the wheels and tires (245 40 18's) on, and I'm still kinda up in the air about them... Granted, they look better than stock, but they just don't seem right...opinions?

quick question: will 1jz valve covers and timing cover(s) fit on a 2jz? I'm assuming that they would, but I just want to double check... thanks, Devon Goodspeed

amen.

the man does have a point, I'd defiantly pull it apart and check it out inside... ...for curiosity's sake, if nothing else.

ya know, I always wanted to take a 32 ford (or equivalent) roadster and put a 2jz in it.... ...just think, a gt40 sticking out of the side of the hood to where it looks like it's just hanging there, FMIC....oh yeah. One day, I'll get around to doing that...;-) -Devon (needs to pull his head...

haha, honestly, mostly on here, Sf, ebay, or from local guys... The Wastegate came from "V8THIS" (I think) on SF, but the turbo came from a friend who was going to a pt67 dbb... All you really have to do is just be patient. I mean, I don't plan on having that motor in any time soon, so there...

Got the springs/pads/rotors/brake lines on the car... ...just waiting for a day off when the wheel place is actually open to get the tires mounted and stuck on there...

Update: got the baster back up and running and started blasting some more parts ...cam gears, valve covers, waterpump housing, coolant hardlines, rear upper timing cover all awaiting powdercoat. I'll post some pictures when I get the chance... -Devon Goodspeed

haha, yeah, it doesn't look TOO bad... ;-)

there's actually a lot more to that car than is seen. It's completly rust free, and the front end/interior pieces (including the dash) etc... are simply out of the car at the moment... and since he's not here, I'll update it for him...Brandon recently purchased a 7m block that's been bored .40...

yeah, the turbo needs a new rear seal, but even considering that, it's well worth the price... ...or, even twice the price... Small update: Powdercoated the waterneck, then realized that the grit in the sandblaster was a bit too coarse, so powdercoating is going to be on hold for a little...

haha, uhhhh, whoops?

Now as far as the 2jz is concerned, here's the story so far: I picked this ^ motor up from a local Mkiv guy who swapped a gte in his n/a for the low sum of $500.00. Internally, there isn't a score on either the cams, caps, rod, or main bearings. The thing looks brand new inside...

UPDATED: more updates on post numbers 32 and 54. Post number 62=FFIM construction Thought it was about time to give this an update...2jz stuff is on the back burner right now since I can barely even reach the motor in the garage, and since I'm in college/working two jobs my free time is...

haha, I busted my ass on those flames, I'll have you know... -Devon Goodspeed

Honestly, if it was me, I would just get the head gasket set and use the composite from that. If you plan on rebuilding anyway, there's really no point in dropping the extra cash on an MHG.

I dyed my seats in a similar fashion and after getting in and out of the car for a month it began to wear off and expose the blue (factory color) underneath...<BR><BR>Keep me updated on how yours turn out.<BR><BR>-Devon Goodspeed

yes, hence the situation that I am in. It was my assumption that the colors off of the maf connector lined up with the colors on the MAFT itself, but that's where I ran into the problem with the doubles of certain colors...

I wired up my maft last night and the red indicator light kept blinking twice, which, according to the manual was "no maf signal" Does anybody know why, or, what I should check to troubleshoot it? Also, there are two black wires and two pink wires, how do I know which one's go to the maft...