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Same. No stalling. Burped a little black smoke when I got back on the gas though.

TSRM Page AT-18 Fluid type specified is Dextron II. Given that this is what Toyota specifies for correct operation of the automatic transmission, I would not put in type F fluid. You are likely to incur some undesirable consequences. If you want quicker shifts with less slippage, then you need...

The factory full size spare is actually a 205/55R16, which is the same rolling diameter as the 225/50R16 tire. (I used to use the 205/55R16 as winter tires, since the narrower profile works better in the snow.) My '89 came with a board in the rear lifting the floor about 2.5" off the steel, and...

TSRM Page EC-16

This is what I was replying to. that is, removing the engine from the chassis, and pulling the crankshaft without removing the head. Engine is out of the car, so no messing around with the subframe, but actually pulling the crank from the block, which requires removal of the lower timing cover...

You cannot pull the crank without removing the lower timing cover. You cannot remove the lower timing cover with the head on. Maybe you can replace the bearings, but only if there is zero crank damage.

I think that it doesn't matter at all what a bunch of guys on the Internet think. I think that if you like it, then it'll work very nicely. Personally, when choosing rims for my car, I would photoshop them onto a picture of my car. (Or a car the colour that I plan my car to be.) If I like 'em...

There is no speed limiter, other than the fact that you have about 200BHP, but there is a rev limiter, which you will never hit in top gear. Edit for Smartass answer: There's a big governor under the hood. It's the big cast iron one with the "7M-GE" on the front.

Then the second part is the case. Not everyone can make a mediocre body kit look good.

Fixed that for you.

I bought one of those eBay silicone hose kits. It's still in the box in the garage, but I did examine it pretty well, and I believe it to be at least reasonably good.

Well, a 2JZ-GE non-VVTi longblock can be run on the 7M-GTE electronics, and with a turbo kit (Also run on the 7M-GTE electronics) it could get you to 500hp. I believe that you'll still end up spending more money getting there than you would with the 7M, but I can see the temptation.

Personally, I don't like oil additives. If the oil really needs it, then why don't the highly paid chemical engineers working for the companies who make and certify the oil put it in in the first place? Certainly they don't expect most people to have very high performance engines, but if they...

The sender wire shorting to ground will spike the gauge. Also, my tach (NA->T swap) indicates about 5500 RPM when it hits the rev limiter. Verify your stock tach against a diagnostic tach, I think you'll find that yours is wrong.

'89 are grey plug, BUT they are the same pinout as the earlier yellow plug harnesses. My '89NA was grey plug. I popped in an '87 7M-GTE harness and ECU. It plugged right in, except for the ABS harness, which was easy enough to adapt. I kept the 1989 ABS brain and actuator. So under my dash...

I suppose that holds true for me as well, since I'm not re-using the oil pump that was in my 7M-GTE. (Particularly not since I saw what was left of the bearings when I pulled the crank!) I guess that I've got nothing to lose in this process as well. Worst case, I ruin an oil pump that was...

HTTP://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-elbow45deg2insilicone.php HTTP://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aluminumpipe45deg.php (choose 2" size) $25 for the both. You may also want to pick up a piece of 2" straight pipe and a pair of couplers to be sure it reaches.

No, 1 45 degree pipe, and 1 45 degree silicone coupler. The 45 degree silicone coupler is directly connected to the turbo, so that I have fewer fasteners to deal with right there. The T clamps are a pain to get to, even with the accordian hose off. Then the 45 degree pipe is connected to the...

A pair of 2" 45 degree couplers and a small piece of 2" pipe? Actually a 2.5" 45 degree coupler and a 2.5" 45 degree bend aluminium pipe are currently serving as my lower charge pipe almost all the way to my intercooler. I think that I have a short length of straight pipe to extend it a bit...

The only HKS system that I've compared to is the twin outlet Super Dragger, and mine is quieter. (Both cars with the LIPP elbow and RT downpipe, no cat.)