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Yes the harness will be different. You would have to adapt the chassis harness to that ECU. If you have the plugs off of the '88, it could be done, but if not... Probably easier to get a '90 ECU and wiring harness.

You mean like a half million klicks in the driver's seat? :p

Absolutely.

As for me, I don't trust "feeling a difference" because I know too much about placebo effect. I trust objective measures. Some time I plan on seeing if I can measure what my front strut bar actually does. My plan is to loosen the adjustment so that the bar could expand or contract, and mark the...

That's what the guy with the blue car did. I don't like that though.

I'd do as hvyman said, and pin the connectors to a new harness. If you just want to make a jumper harness though it should be doable. You'd have to de-solder the connectors from the board though. That's how these things are made.

Shifter, no. Hand brake, you'd want to swap over a LHD assembly, but you've got that with your existing chassis.

So... What you want is for someone to do a wire-by-wire diagram of which wire on the MoTeC goes to which pin on the factory ECU so that you can take the sockets off of the ECU board and make a jumper harness? If so, it should be a matter of cross referencing an '87-'88 7M-GTE ECU pin diagram to...

To set it up so that you can "clock" the H pattern all you need to do is have the last thread be tighter so that it's tight at any position of that last thread. No big deal, that's how the factory and TRD knobs are made.

Yeah, I'm about 3 hours north of you, so I understand the trials of finding a rust-free chassis. This is also the reason that my chassis is worse. It was pristine when I got it in 1996. My plan is actually to make fibreglass quarters. Nowhere near ideal, but should still look good enough when...

Was going to test fit for a faceplate for the APEXi Neo and AVC-R in the car... But if I have to shovel snow before I can even open the door... Maybe not.

I'll be doing some extensive rust repair, and I'm NOT looking forward to it. In my case, the only reason that I'm even considering it is that I've had this car for a very long time, and spent a large number of hours in the driver's seat. I have zero expectation that there will be any value...

Thanks for the pictures, it does clear some things up. Yeah, I was thinking MAF-T Pro. What you have will still allow the use of larger injectors, and so will still remove the need for the Lexus AFM, but maybe you should hold on the the APEXi for more fuel trim control. I do not like the "blow...

Well, I'll say that I do like the silver one, but I'm a fan of an understated look. I think that it looks a little stockier, and a bit more aggressive. the simple 5 spoke wheels in a complementary colour accentuate the look, without making it look like it's trying too hard.

What I don't like about it is that there's no way to remove the bumper covers, fenders, panels or other parts when you do that. Just having the seam showing - as it's supposed to - would look better, IMO.

It's on the inside area. You'll have to search around for it. I can't get into my car on account of it being buried in snow.

The head rest can be raised. There is a latch on the inside that allows the head rest to be raised and lowered. It also has adjustment for forward and back a little. It's a ratchet that locks in (IIRC) 3 positions forward, then allows it to come all the way back after being pushed forward once...

Anyway, yeah the parts you have are a good start. I would definitely add an AFPR to the mix though, and a better fuel pump. You'll need bigger injectors, but you don't need the Lexus AFM if you're going to use the MAFT. For 300-450 WHP, the 550s will do the job, but I'd probably consider 750s...

It was a major pain to get some of the hangers up, but they all are, and they all fit perfectly.

For the front of the fender, you may have to leave the trim, or else get really creative putting in the marker lights again. Same with the rear corners. These will have to have a gap as well, since you don't want to join the bumper covers to the quarters or fenders. I'd probably weld metal to...