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To the OP your profile says that you have a 7MGTE but for the model year it says you don't have one indicating this is in a different chassis. A search for your name indicates that your part of the 240sx community. So the first question is what vehicle is this engine in. And if it is not a...

It's just a working hypothesis based on a quick look over available information. The two sensors involved are the crank sensor(12 teeth) and a one of the cam sensors(1 sync tooth). I think the sensors are fine. It's probably just a setting in the ECU. Again this is just a hypothesis and action...

The AEM seems to like doing crazy calculations for simple functions, which is why you see a lot of people who don't like to tune them. The crank has a 12 tooth ring. two rotations of the crankshaft give us 1 cycle or a total of 24 teeth. Now here is where the I think the issue might have come...

What is weird is that he fixed his breakup issue by reducing the max possible dwell time(from 2.724ms down to 0.998ms at 5500rpm). I can only guess that maybe this map is using a different method of basing its dwell calculations on than the 12 tooth wheel giving 24 teeth per cycle. Not sure how...

By changing this setting you have moved the max dwell time from 2.724ms down to 0.998ms at 5500 RPM. This might not be enough time to charge the coils if you put it under a heavy load.

Measure at the ECU to check wiring. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=31

Did you get connector 'B3', connected properly during your swap? The small connector.

I know, and I agree with the "Teach a man to fish...." style. I usually try to give some time before I say something if you have pointed them in a direction. That usually lasts until I start having visions of everything that could be missed, overlooked, or even made worse, and I end up saying...

The signals are the same. So is the Skid Control Computer. Are you sure your R154 has a rear speed sensor? edit: Sorry JJ didn't see you had posted already.

There have been ones done like you're mentioning, and there are images of it floating around the forum I just can't remember where. And honestly the big deal with DVC vs SVC is the flexibility with impedance levels. It was more of a big deal when you had amps that couldn't handle some of these...

Like this one: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?144249-Subwoofer-Ideas&p=1725098&viewfull=1#post1725098

Then I highly recomend the W3. As long as you can afford a quality amp to push the thing. That is actually more important than the sub. And wattage isnt everything. Ive seen a 250 watt amp hit harder than a cheap 1000 watt amp simply becaue the 250 watt amp could maintain control of the sub. But...

The thread right below this one has a really good option. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?167738-Outstanding-subwoofer-for-the-targa-guys If you're looking to go bigger and keep targa storage you will probably need to consider either a spare tire delete or, more extreme, a back...

The first thing we checked for was for the pump to be running with +B to FP jumped and the ignition on......No running pump. So then we tested for 12v at the +B pin in the Diag connector.......No Voltage The next step was to check the EFI fuse and test for 12v....Good, found 12v Next we...

Upon reinialtization this is how things should go: Re-inilaize.... Step 1:Select VTEC control..(You will select OFF) Step 2:Select EASY or PRO...(Select PRO) Step 3:Select number of cylinders...(Enter 6) Step 4:Select throttle sensor Characteristic, or "Thr".... ( Choose the arrow pointing...

Check your EFI fuse.

Did you select the correct Air flow sensor type when the AFC NEO re-initialized?

You seem to have done a fairly thurough job hunting down, possible pressure loss point. The one thing that still seems out of plaice is your AFR's. You say it's showing 13/high 12 at WOT. This is very lean. On the factory TCCS you will usually be in the 10's. What is your fuel pressure?

A couple of shotgun questions to cover a few possibility's. 1. Which method did you use for checking for boost leaks? Smoke or pressure test? 2. If the Pressure test what was the rate at which the system lost pressure after the air feed was cut off. 3. Which BOV/BPV do you have? 4. Which...

That light is activated by the float in the coolant overflow bottle. Did you add coolant to that as well? As for the switch the contacts inside are known to foul up over time. Luckily these are easy to get to and easy to clean. That is your problem.