First I have to ask, are you absolutely sure you have enough fuel in the tank to start the car? Not simply going by the fuel gauge, but physically know there is enough fuel. You would be surprised how many times people have been caught by this.
Next, if no codes is the case, please verify that...
The link you posted above shows the yellow wire going to IGF(RPM) and the green wire going to NE(Ignition Signal), yet your post states they are hooked up opposite, was this a typo? Also, there are three loops of wire(grey, white, brown) at the base of the unite where the wire harness comes out...
Not sure I entirely agree, though I do understand where you are coming from with this. But that is probably due to my loose explanation of how struts and shocks are different than anything. It was a quick and generalized, to help highlight the specific differences, so it left a lot of room for...
A lot of people are unfamiliar with the difference between the two and often use the words interchangeably, probably because the two devices look so similar.
Shock absorbers have one job in a suspension. To control compression and rebound rates. Thats it. In and of themselves they have no...
The switches, switch both power and ground. So even if there is 12V at the motor there might be a fault with the ground circuit.
A few questions.
1. You're sure the window lock switch on the driverside door is not engaged?(sorry, have to ask)
2. Does the window fail to go up or down or both...
Don't be too hard on the guy. We so seldom get MKIV questions in here that I'm sure almost everyone who came in immediately looked for MKIII front shock mounts. Most of us use the New Posts link to see what is new so specific forums are an after thought.
As far as your question goes I haven't...
You know I really shouldn't be surprised that you would think this way, but somehow I still am.
If these changes were done in their own garage to their own car and that is where it stayed you'd be right. Whatever they want to do is their own business. The problem begins as this forum for...
The thing that worries me here is that you have removed only one wear item from the circuit, the starter relay, which I would assume you have already tested so that wasn't the issue. The other two are the IGN switch and the starter contacts. Both of which could still be an issue. Like Pi said...
A good composite HG is very compliant, with proper torque values, and will probably last you for many many miles. I did 16psi daily for 40,000 miles without issue.
Look, the reason it's recommended that the block be removed to be machined in preparation for a MHG is for two reasons. To ensure a straight surface with a proper roughness average. Both are very important since the distance between cylinders is so small on the 7M. With so little material you...
You will be fine running the M/T ECU.
There are two changes to be made.
The first is to hook up the reverse light switch. The previous owner may have never hooked it up. Or he may have chopped the connectors off of an auto transmission and wired them up on the manual transmission to work...
#1:Rear ABS sensor.
#2:Pre-89 engine side connectors for an automatic transmission
#3:Connector for the backup light switch
#4:Connects to a cluster of connectors by the fuse box.
#5:Connector for the Oxygen sensor
As a side note, minor modification to the engine side harness will be needed to...
Like Grim said, in situations like these it is usually the bulb. But to answer your question, the low fuel warning light is not controlled by the fuel level sender( the one with the float on a pivoting arm). Instead it is controlled by a sensor located at the end of the fixed arm.
It has to do with direct fit. Since the routing of the pipes is somewhat different between years(86-87, then 88-92), so the mounting points for some of the adel clamps is different. Most notably the receiver/drier mounting points.
I went with an American Condenser parallel flow unit. It was...
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