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Because I heard the tps has to match with the ecu from some people on SF. Like jdm tps-jdm ecu, us tps- us ecu. I also don't see why it wouldn't work its just a measurement sensor. There is prod yrs for them though which makes me a bit nervous since they will not match now. Quoted from...

Alright I'm not gonna worry then, thanks!

Nobody huh.... I guess I'll just do it and see what happens.

I'm not sure but I'm thinking more that it shows right away warm startup.. If it didn't I would know cause It'd bother me so I guess its normal?

Yeah I knew it had something to do with heat and coolant so I thought I'd ask. Before my engine was not on a crate in my garage it took 2 mins or so for the temp gauge(stock) to kick in and I mean from 0 to whatever the engine temp is currently at... wherever the temp would be at after running...

I'd make sure no fuses are blown and I had the same problem as you and it ended up my cps was 180 deg out.

Hey gaboon my bimetallic has been snapped ever since I got my car, I just have bypassed it I had no idea it was important.. Could this be why it takes 2 minutes for my coolant temp gauge to kick in from startup?

Yeah everything is "necessary" in a stock system without "compensating with a goal in mind", also known as modification. Modification is a completely different story and if you used those terms with the guys that posted above you probably would got a different answer. Yeah there are things you...

The pins match as long as it is jdm-jdm us-us. The orientation determines its functionality yeah. Obviously due to the pin difference the orientation will be way different after correct adjustment and my question is will this throw off my ecu or will it pick up the correct info from the tps...

Yes my tps's work I have checked them per tsrm... but my question is if the jdm tps will work with the usdm ecu. I want to use my jdm tb and that requires the jdm vertical prong tps meaning they are not the same as the usdm ones(horizontal pronged). Meaning this may throw off the ecu when i...

Anybody know about this?

What's the check valve and where is the write-up for the European mod? I wanna put a catch can where my canister was. Seems to be safe to me it vents under the car but fuck it, I'll do it right to be 100% sure.

I have my charcoal canister deleted and the line open running down throught the rubber cap hole underneath where the canister would be with a vented gas cap. There's so much controversy over this, this is what I thought was the correct way to go about the deletion after searching. Is this...

Alright so 2500rpm cold should be no vac, 2500rpm hot should be 70mmHg. I'll check that once my engine's in thanks man!

This is sort of an intricate question so I'm going to give some info on what I have, what I want to do, then word it the best I can. I have a jdm 7mgte engine I dropped in, my wiring harness+ecu+car are all 89 usdm. I currently have a usdm tb with corresponding tps. I want to install the jdm...

I guess I'll hope for the best

Alright, sounds good. I just melted the extra nozzle shut with a soldering iron.. The xtra nozzle seems to be connected to the nozzle on the bottom side and not related to the sides so I think this should work. If anyone else thinks differently lmk please.

Oh ok, mines a turbo.. Makes sense cause I've never worked on a n/a.

I broke the bottom nozzle off my egr vac mod somehow so I bought another one. This one has 2 nozzles coming out of a side which throws me off because I don't recall anywhere there is room for an xtra hose... One I broke on left, new one on right.

Friday or Sat would be good, I can at least use my block tester to see if it's a bhg or not, then go from there. Be careful in the meantime. Don't let it get too hot because then that could lead to head warpage which is no bueno at all. Carpool or use a relative's/friends car if you can.