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Soooo....it's off by 30 degrees yet he can't see the marks...and mentioned the belt "probably" jumped? Read what everyone here gave you and spend the 30 minutes setting it correct yourself.

With the 7MGTE tach, you need to swap in a 100k resistor in place of the 130k for the 1JZ's rpm to read correctly. Something else I found out is that Airbag and non-Airbag clusters are not compatible if you're swapping clusters.

I have a ton of room with my GE or soarer (not sure which one I was actually sold used as I was told it was for a TT) fanblade and TT clutch. Just had to trim the rear of the blades to clear the coolant neck. It's definitely way more than an inch as I can fit my hand between the radiator and...

The 7M-GE ECU will not work with a 7M-GTE harness as the plugs/pinouts are not the same and they operate completely different. If you have a 2JZ-GE, then it has a top feed fuel rail that will also be compatible with 7M injectors. If you have 2JZ-GTE 550cc injectors, you would also need the...

Was this a singled GTE? What turbo, tuning, & AFR's did you have?

Two in particular that I hated my life with was the coolant hose centered between the top valve covers (getting the squeeze clamp off) and the other was sliding on the lower radiator hose to the engine with the frame rail in the way. The firewall's stitch/lap weld blocked any tool completely...

If you want torque out of a 1JZ then go VVT-I, else go 2JZ. I must admit that the 1JZ with parallel twins spooling sounds so much more sexier than the sequential 2JZ twins taking turns.

That's what I'm talking about. I lucked out with healthy turbos and valve stem seals. I get zero smoke daily driving my car. Thus, my swap was on the low cost spectrum.

A 7M flywheel will not work as it has 6 bolts in an offset pattern and the JZ flywheels have 8 bolts in a uniform pattern.

A 1JZ and 7M-GTE disk and pressure plate are the same thing since the 1JZ came with a R154 for a manual. Only difference is the bellhousing. For non-mentioned items, look back one page for my post.

You have to find it, here is a direct link http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50

Yes, use the USDM water pump. Use a 7M-GTE clutch disk and pressure plate if you're using a R-154 with a 1JZ flywheel. No but you need remove the protective plate and move them down/out of the way to hammer your firewall in about an inch for the rear twin's intake to clear the firewall.

I did my Aristo swap for just under $4100 with all new parts/conversion parts. I already had a 2.5" FMIC setup and aftermarket clutch which saved me a bunch. I also helped a buddy with his 1JZ swap who spent less than $2500 which includes the cost of buying a used R154. Everything depends...

Us JDM 2JZ guys have CT20A's, USDM twins are CT12B's. EDIT: We're in sequential mode which the first turbo has an electronic exhaust valve that's closed off from turbo #2 under 3800ish rpm and also has an internal wastegate. Thus, turbo #1 has essentially 2 wastegates. When the transition to...

Sup buddy? I thought you already finished as I remember reading your posts on Holsets since at least 2009 and just assumed you were done by now.

A log manifold would be crazy tire roasting once you hit boost as the difference between 5psi and 20psi is a few hundred rpm and feels like getting hit by a freight train. Whoops, forgot this is for a 1JZ.

I figure he means mechanical timing but that would more so make the car not start if all 3 cps's are out of alignment.

The manifold is better than the usual china manifolds as SS321 has way better properties than the typical SS304. You need a divided manifold to run your 8-blade HX35. Even if you get it bolted to the manifold, in my experience with the 7M, it may hit your strut tower. I had a custom angled...

Fixed. :biglaugh:

I have a 2JZ-GTE clutch with a Soarer fan and had to clip blades along with shimming the fan forward. There is enough clearance to fit an aftermarket radiator as it's over 1.5" away currently on the stock radiator.