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nice nice

i have to figure out the ig system every thing els is fine i have another idea any way is to run a 0 to 5 volt afm with fuel computer then a 0 to 5 volt what will convert to 2.5 to 9

here is mine I used 1 way check valves works really well for ring seal under boost the intake pipe give vacume and berfor boost the manifold does the job all controled by the vavle

^ to answer your qestion no it does not ware them out I had these on my car on my drift loose spec and ride hight but it your car is lowered and want no srubbing toe you will need new tie rod arms or tie rods how they work is they alow your rack to travle further befor hitting...

well the reson for that is (A) I am not sue if I am going to keep this motor (B) it will be going in the back (C) I going to get my supra going again i kinda miss it

the 7mgte thottle body is rather easy to do you have to use thottle body form a 87 to 88 thou since it will have the bleed screw -take 7mgte gasket mark and hog out the 22re intake -swap the 22re tps on and internale sweep arms -you will have to push otu the intrail steel caoller...

plug and play up to 75 with out adjustment of timeing and can go upwords to a 125 shot with roulghy 2 to 4 pulled or what ever zex tells you to sex it at

i kinda stop playing the game but i guess it is done now

if your a nobb at nos stuff just run a zex setup zex tubo kit not reg kit or it will not regulate the fuel propley and just go hella rich at upper rpms

pte 67 a/r 68 24 pounds power tell 7000 rpm maybe a tad more i cut it off early because of it being a stock block and i bet with some more tuing could have gotten 600 out of it

^ do both your tire's spin easy or does it peg leg alot or transfer back and forth between peg leg and lock up if tansfers back and forth good time to rebuild if the lsd action works good don't bother

my front drive shaft is the rock chipper shit sounds like death with skipping on rocks but never has failed me yet the outter drive sleav was cut and clocked because the clankying was driving me crazy i beat on that shaft so much still no broken u joints

ya you breaking yoke would be really odd I use my sc40 pipe drive shaft on my truck as a spining skid plate i crushed rocks with this d shaft no broken u joints and when I drive I drive to break ps when rebuilding do not use the oem crush sleav they suck

well the power package is installed and got a good boot in power

I had new idea to improve on the 22re since there is really no piggy back that will work with it then a light turned on in my head 5mge engine harness and ecu and every thing to make it work and upgrad afm and thottle body then you coul use piggy back's like afc 2 to sort out...

ya it's alot of fun only thing that sucks abotu wheeling is you break stuff but my rig is pretty good now for not breaking but i got bord today and made the NM power package custom 5mge afm (bord swap) 87 to 88 7mgte thottle body swap 22re tps and re did the linkage...

after my end over ender and 2 barrle rolls down a himm because my motor conked out because my sump ran out of fule made me say fuck gas right now i going to make surge tank for my truck so this does not happen again all yae really need is this and then a propian setup and your good...

yes I have and well ther pricey and the exhuast is on the wroung side not to bad if your ifs but if your soilid axle liek me can be tad anoying ka24de's are cheep because every one wants a s20 so there pretty much free motor and ebay trubo setup on ka24's are cheep and can eb put...

13b or 3 rotor are fine in less you buy a kids car or enigne and expect it to be good it never happens pretty much like your fox body mustang and dare i say 7mgte too

I have littel build thread on here wiht my truck but I go play in the woods and do end over enders and barrles rolls i am rocking a 22re right now but i want more power my next motor will be 2 choices nissan ka24de 160hp or a 3sgte 200hp and run both of them on propain any thing...