OK looks like this build has gone to shit.. lol. Upon closer inspection the cylinder walls are seriously fucked up. Whoever built this engine is a read ass hole. It looks like they used a 3 stone hone from autozone on a drill. Not only are the hatchmarks uneven, but they are deep, i can feel...
"II. Defining 'Noob'
Contrary to the belief of many, a noob/n00b and a newbie/newb are not the same thing. Newbs are those who are new to some task* and are very beginner at it, possibly a little overconfident about it, but they are willing to learn and fix their errors to move out of that...
i wouldn't scare him too bad just yet. Just wait and find out what your mechanic says. A balancer for $400 is ridiculous you can buy one used for much cheaper than that...
Sorry, i hit reply instead of edit by accident.
Also, if nobody minds me asking, what should the clearance be between the cylinder walls and the piston on the axial sides of the piston, specifically on the bottom of the piston (not the thrust sides) when cold? The clearance on my engine seems a...
so ive been thinking a lot and i think im going to go NA-T. I will just use my NA block pistons rods crank everything but use the head off the turbo along with all the manifolds etc. Am i correct in saying all i need to do to convert it is drill and tap the turbo feed? Does the drain have to be...
https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=326_79_14_62_174&products_id=1464
Considerably cheaper, and same quality as OEM. Unfortunately they don't have an entire engine set, but that is much of what you will need
I also have a question. How far in do i press the dipstick tube into the block? I see some kind of line that looks like it indicates where to stop, but it wasn't at this line when i got the engine so im not entirely sure. Any help would be appreciated with that.
Small update, pulled the crank. Going to run it down to the machine shop and get an opinion on it, hopeful but not counting on anything good.
Oh ya, and heres the ratchet everyone keeps talking about:biglaugh:
Pistons nice and clean looking
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=77724&group_ID=12918&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
:squirt-mo
It is my pride and joy... haha.
Am i right in saying i cant put the head back on until i get the crankshaft swapped in because of the rear timing cover? Or can the rear timing cover be put on after the head?
I will start off that the main reason i am making this thread is to show off all my pictures, and to get help every step of the way. So i recently bought a 7mgte to swap into my 86.5 NA. Basically i am just taking the engine mostly apart to inspect it, and putting it back together with new parts...
Good luck! You should plastigauge your new bearings, its seriously simple and could save you in the long run. Not giving you a "lecture" (Trust me i couldnt care less if your engine started knocking again), just a suggestion, and its super easy.
Unfortunately i pulled the main caps and was not happy with what i saw. The number 1 and 2 main journals on the crankshaft dont look too good. Theres some pretty major pitting on number two. Number 1 has a little, but not quite as bad. All oil clearances are still within spec despite the wear on...
Ok so i have figured out these are KING bearings. They are marked STD, so does that mean they are original standard size?
I am having trouble figuring out the numbering system toyota uses. My rods and crank are not marked in the same way that the manual states they should be, so someone with a...
Got some pictures. Here is the side of the block, looks to be the "weaker" version. Also, no squirters. I also seem to have a 6M Crank. I forgot to mention, the dipstick tube is the push in style, not the screw in, so that is something else that leads me to believe this is not an NA block. Seems...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.