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Interesting, thanks for the info! Im going to get some pics soon here, are there any other particular areas i should take pictures of (besides where the squirters should be and the exhaust side of the block)?

So motors were turbo'd in Japan in 86? Interesting never knew that. Would posting the casting number tell any secrets here?

That was my plan when i opened it up to find none!:aigo:

Im going to take more pictures tomorrow to verify this. I have never seen a block with squirters so I could very well be missing something. I was told they would be easily visible and replaceable with the crankshaft in the block, and i looked all over and cant seem to find them ( I have seen...

I was reading the "Turbo-A" engines didn't have them, though i honestly have no idea what "turbo-A's" are. BTW, all im trying to figure out is if its an original turbo block or not, i don't care much for whether or not its the stronger version.

I will take a look at this tomorrow. Even if i figure this out, what am i proving here? (besides its a stronger/ weaker block version)

Ohhh, i see what you mean. Here is a side view of the engine block.

Mind to explain what you mean by that? Im completely lost.

By the way i just pulled the pan and it appears that there are no oil squirters! Any idea what is up with that? Everything is identical to a turbo block besides the squirters... Does this mean it is an NA block, or did some turbo motors come without squirters? (this is out of an 89 By the way.)

Damn that rod is black hahaha

edit: Sorry ignore.

Sounds good, but is it likely that the machinist will charge out the ass for a procedure like this? Is it a better idea to find a scrap block to bolt it to and get the whole unit machined?

Is it possible to get the rear timing cover machined only? I just bought a 7mgte and it appears the timing cover is barely higher than the deck surface. I cant really afford to take the whole block apart at this time and get the deck resurfaced, so i was wondering if i could measure the...

You can reuse the studs but for the best torque precision you should get some ARP moly lube for the threads. If you are planning to use the MHG im assuming you are pulling the engine apart to get the block deck surfaced right?

So much NA hate in this thread...

The head itself is the same turbo or NA. EDIT btw your car looks exactly like mine haha

Damn dude youve got guts hahaha

People always talk about how an all original like new supra is so cool...but then they drive it for a little while and realize they get bored with it very fast...

I think the rears have 1 bolt for each pivot.

Just remove the upper control arm, its easy. EDIT: Can someone fill me in, i think im missing something, what would stepping on the brake do?