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Theres an overcenter spring in there that once you go past halfway helps you push it further down, so if your system has air in it its going to pull it to the floor. Open up the bleeder on the transmission and fill the reservoir until fluid starts coming out the bleeder, push and pull the pedal...

Im not sure how it works with the forged crank, can you re-tap the crank? If you can you can just have the old threads drilled out and go for a slightly bigger hole/threads and use oversize bolts. Of course that required pulling the engine apart. Maybe you can get some inserts such as timeserts...

You can do it in a weekend easily depending on how in depth you are going, and assuming everything is in good condition and your machine shop will get the head back to you fast enough.

I can take some tomorrow, what do you need to know though? Are you putting them back in?

You probably didn't line up the distributor properly, it can be tricky to get it right.

Each time those bolts back out i would imagine the flywheel wobbling is just making the matters worse, it is probably opening up the threads in your crank as the bolts are jerked back anf forth in there. I have a crank that had the crank pulley bolt come loose and the pulley bolt when screwed in...

Wow thanks everyone that's perfect!

I was wondering if anyone made a schrader valve fuel pressure test port, like the GM's have that can be screwed in. I would like to have a fitting like that on my fuel rail, but i don't want to have it welded. I was wondering if there was a fitting that i could buy, then drill/tap my rail and...

If you're having a shop pull a vac for you, make sure you purge the lines on your gauge set before you hook them up otherwise all the air in those lines will go into your system.

Check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures and verify it matches with the specs in the book

Ah, yes, i believe post 89 had your style.

I am NA, so i only have the single electric fan, and it would only turn on when high pressure side pressure exceeded about 250PSI i believe it was. Heres a picture i took when i had it apart. OEM is on the left and aftermarket is on the right and installed. Take note that the new aftermarket TXV...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=72 Im confused. It looks like they use select fit bearings on the mains also.. I have in front of me a Taiho/Toyota main bearing shell that has the number "2" stamped on it in ink.

You will hear a "double knock" with a piston pin issue.

My recommendation would be to stay away from R134A with all stock components. I did my AC system recently and used R134A as well and im not pleased with the results. Im not coming here to tell you R134A wont work well, but just sharing my experience, and for whatever reason, it didn't. I suspect...

I thought there was no "standard" for main and rods? Considering there is a numbering system for the rods mains and crank? I guess i am mistaken.

Well seeing as Toyota uses different tolerances on each main web, if im using non Toyota bearings it must be line bored/honed to get them all to the same size.

Ive recently been considering all my options for my 7mgte that i want to put in my supra. Right now i have a block, rods, crank, all the parts etc. These are the operations that need to be done: - Crank ground - Undersized bearings - Block main webbing line bored and matched to the crank and...

OEM engine gasket set is BANK! I didnt know Cometic made sets for us though. Ive also used Stone gaskets without a problem, they are also very good quality

First off what is a piston bolt? Second i have looked and tried and you cannot remove the piston out the bottom, the main journal webbings are in the way. Heres a shot of the bottom end for you.