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Gotta catch you on the suprastore tranny parts. They're using the old tool steel upgraded bearing cover from marlin crawler, and it HUGELY marked up. You can get the same kit (he doesn't put them in "kit form on his site, but it's the bearing cover, shift fork, upgraded thrust washer...

Gonna save you a lot of time here. This right here is your #1 issue. O/D light flashing is the transmission version of a check engine light. Follow the instructions here:http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=13 Now, the code 52 is fault in knock sensor...

Can also get the line from any autoparts store.

Blinder is there for a reason...

Then in that case it's even better to go with a built setup as you can get absurdly high spring rates and not have to worry about the dampeners. Threaded sleeves will allow the drop you need in such a case.

Or stop drinking the coolaid and marketing gimmicks and build a proper setup that will outperform an off the shelf coilover with generic valving.

Adjustability is an overrated gimmick. Properly valved dampeners for your setup will win everytime.

Oh, also forgot the displacement limitations in Japan depending on your license.

Use only an OEM EGR cooler gasket from the dealer. It's a metallic gasket that can take the heat, unlike the fiber gaskets used in most gasket sets (felpro even uses fiber). It will NOT last and replacing that gasket with the engine in the car is a nightmare. Not to mention it's hot exhaust...

A more expensive smaller displacement engine as well. Same reason the 4 banger turbo mustangs never went over well, small engine, big expense, hard to sell to people that believe "there is no replacement for displacement."

Oddly, that's about the only thing they have in common. Both birds and fish have an internal compass... Not saying it's the answer, but at least it make some sense.

Marlin Crawler is about the only one that does it with a warranty that I'm aware of. Also includes their upgrades. Not cheap though. I think some of the vendors on the forums do it as well, not sure.

Syncro wear or simply your clutch isn't fully releasing.

Exactly what he was asking for. Wheels don't fit over the big brakes, he needs spacers, but wants to fit the tires under the fender. Nobody said we don't need negative camber...though we don't need as much as people seem to think as it's not a McPherson strut like 99% of the cars that want...

Rod/piston is not removable from the bottom. Head has to come off to remove it. More than likely the rod is out of round as well.

Yes, but there were changes over the years, though from what I've seen they're minor and don't effect performance at all.

If you can't shift, it's not adjusted correctly, do NOT force the shifter unless you want to break a shift fork. Seems to be a lot of trial and error in getting them setup, make sure you have your clutch pedal freeplay set as well (it may change everytime you adjust the pull to push...

Yes, one piece, the hard ine parts are crimped onto the soft line.

Bushings possibly can, but not alone. Sounds like a blown shock, wouldn't be too hard to tell if it's that bad as it's probably leaking.

Most people don't get how car amps work. Old stuff is great, it's the same reason old guitar amps are worth more than many modern amps. Prices are all over the place too. I've been kinda searching for a motorcycle to fix up and people want way too much damn money for crap...