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Like owning a GM. Could have the door cylinder's modified for the same key though...

Also, more info (appears they don't like torque :rofl:) http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43528 He's also on stock twins...he's an idiot.

IMHO, he's on crack...

Trying to find pics of how it should have been extended... That doesn't look right as it looks like fluid can be trapped up inside quite easily.

If the rack goes dry, then you'd be in trouble. Also, the steering assembly isn't meant to take those kinds of forces, IIRC it can crack the housing. Replacing the hardline isn't several hundred dollars, but it is a bit of a pain. Just know if you do get in a wreck you might be found at...

While slant nose Porsches are cool....it's still a Porsche and I wouldn't touch one :rofl:

Without looping the lines on the rack, you're pushing fluid through the entire system, making it MUCH harder than manual steering.

Without the special service tool, setting the rod length on the boost is a bit of a pain...

That light isn't an LED, it's a tiny light bulb with a green condom on it. The reason it doesn't work....is because it's burnt out :p

As I see nothing physically wrong with it, it probably blew a headgasket or rod knocked.

Car have ABS?

Happy B-day Mike!

Brake pedal has nothing to do with brake squeel...

Not gonna get away with only $45 to rebuild your diff. Setup isn't cheap usually, and you'll at least need a new crush sleeve (or a spacer and shims that won't wear out and leave the pinion bearings with zero preload leading to failure). Not to mention new nut, seals, and new bearings if...

Without the braces, I had to keep retorquing the nuts that held the turbo to the manifold. My car had NONE of the braces when I bought it, but I sourced all of them.

Their kit is more a rebuild with an included stronger spring. Things to keep in mind: - MKIII Supra was a top of the line car, a noisy and clunky diff wouldn't fly (in fact they had TSB's on that issue how to fix it) - Most people don't change their fluids like they should (this is made worse...

Switch on the driver's side key cylinder wears and doesn't send the signal to the alarm that it's been unlocked.

Looks like it may be magnesium anyway. The only "rust" colored spot is around the cover which might just be sealant. It doesn't look painted, but it's not rusting... Still pretty cool as it might not be a conventional gear ratio either.

Let's see... Coolant lines to turbo Elbow of death on the back of the motor Main heater lines Coolant hard line under exhaust manifold

Power steering leak catches fire and causes other leaks. Think a fuse on a firecracker, the fuse isn't the thing that actually does the damage, but it starts it ;)